Cafรฉ Chronicles -> Seoul Yeonsinnae ์—ฐ์‹ ๋‚ด

Hey beautiful friends and enemies~

Here I am again with another part of my Cafรฉ Chronicles series, where I take you along to my favorite coffee spots. As Iโ€™ve mentioned before, one of my greatest joys is soaking in beautiful spaces while sipping on a perfectly brewed cup.

Beyond the hours I spent tucked away in libraries and cozy corners, I also had the chance to work remotely quite a bit during my field research trip โ€” huge shoutout to the Korea Foundation (ํ•œ๊ตญ๊ตญ์ œ๊ต๋ฅ˜์žฌ๋‹จ) for making that possible! Back then, I loved grabbing my laptop, heading out for coffee, and switching up my surroundings. And since I was living in Yeonsinnae (์—ฐ์‹ ๋‚ด) โ€” remember my house hunting in Seoul (์„œ์šธ) post? Haha โ€” I made it my personal mission to explore the local cafรฉ scene and see what hidden gems I could find. That said, I want to share a couple of my favorite places with you. Iโ€™ll just list five (even though there are a few more!) so this post doesnโ€™t get too long.

YM COFFEE HOUSE (YM์ปคํ”ผํ•˜์šฐ์Šค) ๐Ÿ“ 21-8 Yeonseo-ro 29-gil, Eunpyeong-gu, Seoul, South Korea ์„œ์šธํŠน๋ณ„์‹œ ์€ํ‰๊ตฌ ์—ฐ์„œ๋กœ29๊ธธ 21-8

Tucked away in the heart of Yeonsinnae (์—ฐ์‹ ๋‚ด), YM COFFEE HOUSE (YM ์ปคํ”ผํ•˜์šฐ์Šค) is a cozy gem set in a former traditional Korean home. With warm wooden interiors, vintage touches, and soft lighting, itโ€™s the perfect spot to relax for hours. The open coffee bar lets you watch skilled baristas craft hand-drip coffees (ํ•ธ๋“œ๋“œ๋ฆฝ ์ปคํ”ผ), turning each cup into a true craft. Their dedication to quality shines through every sip, and their dessertsโ€”especially the crรจme brรปlรฉe and tiramisuโ€”are absolutely delicious. Plus, itโ€™s super work-friendly. I often came here to work on my thesis or write blog posts, thanks to the inviting yet focused atmosphere. If youโ€™re in ์—ฐ์‹ ๋‚ด, make sure to stop by. Whether for coffee, a quiet read, or a cozy work session, YM COFFEE HOUSE wonโ€™t disappoint. Bonus: you can also buy their roasted beans to take home, ground or whole.

๐Ÿ•’ 11:30 AM โ€“ 11:00 PM (Closed on Tuesdays) ๐Ÿ“ทhttps://www.instagram.com/ymcoffeeproject?utm_source=chatgpt.com


FLUP Coffee (ํ”Œ๋Ÿฝ์ปคํ”ผ) ๐Ÿ“ 3rd Floor, 7-11 Yeonseo-ro 29-gil, Eunpyeong-gu, Seoul, South Korea ์„œ์šธ ์€ํ‰๊ตฌ ์—ฐ์„œ๋กœ29๊ธธ 7-11 3์ธต

Nestled on the 3rd floor in the Yeonsinnae (์—ฐ์‹ ๋‚ด) neighborhood, FLUP Coffee (ํ”Œ๋Ÿฝ์ปคํ”ผ) offers a peaceful escape from the cityโ€™s hustle with its sleek, modern vibe. The cafรฉโ€™s design is simple yet sophisticated, featuring clean lines and a soft, muted color palette that creates the perfect environment for focused work or a relaxing coffee break. Their minimalist philosophy carries through from the stylish interior to the carefully curated menu, where every cup of coffee is crafted with precision and care. While their selection of desserts is delightful and the coffee consistently good, itโ€™s the serene atmosphere and refined aesthetic that keep me coming back time and again. Whether youโ€™re settling in with your laptop or diving into a good book, FLUP Coffee is a quiet haven in the heart of the city.

๐Ÿ•’ 12:00 PM โ€“ 10:00 PM (Daily) ๐Ÿ“ท https://www.instagram.com/flupcoffee/


HOB AND NOB COFFEE (ํ™‰์•ค๋†‰ ์ปคํ”ผ) ๐Ÿ“2nd Floor, 811 Tongil-ro, Eunpyeong-gu, Seoul, South Korea ์„œ์šธํŠน๋ณ„์‹œ ์€ํ‰๊ตฌ ํ†ต์ผ๋กœ 811, 2์ธต

Located in Eunpyeong-gu (์€ํ‰๊ตฌ), Seoul, HOB AND NOB COFFEE (ํ™‰์•ค๋†‰ ์ปคํ”ผ) is approximately a 5-minute walk from Yeonsinnae Station (์—ฐ์‹ ๋‚ด์—ญ). A cozy cafรฉ known for its warm ambiance is definitely worth checking out! The cafรฉ’s interior features clean lines, natural wood accents, and ample natural light (love the biiig window), creating a serene environment perfect for both relaxation and productivity. Their menu offers a selection of expertly brewed coffees and delightful desserts, making it a favorite spot for locals and visitors alike. Their French toast is really soooo good!

๐Ÿ•’12:00 PM โ€“ 8:00 PM (Closed on Wednesdays) ๐Ÿ“ทhttps://www.instagram.com/hob_n_nob/?utm_source=chatgpt.com


Dotdotdot2 (๋‹ท๋‹ท๋‹ท2) ๐Ÿ“ 1st Floor, 21 Yeonseo-ro 27-gil, Eunpyeong-gu, Seoul, South Korea ์„œ์šธ ์€ํ‰๊ตฌ ์—ฐ์„œ๋กœ27๊ธธ 21 1์ธต

Just a quick 7-minute walk from Yeonsinnae Station (์—ฐ์‹ ๋‚ด์—ญ), Dotdotdot2 (๋‹ท๋‹ท๋‹ท2) stands out as a trendy cafรฉ where modern design meets a lively, hip atmosphere. The space feels effortlessly cool โ€” think bold pops of color, quirky art, and a laid-back yet energetic vibe that makes it a favorite hangout for creatives and coffee lovers alike. Their menu isnโ€™t just about great coffee; itโ€™s a playground of flavors and aesthetics. From beautifully crafted lattes to eye-catching dessert plates, every order feels like a little celebration. Whether youโ€™re snapping photos for the โ€˜gram or just soaking up the cafรฉโ€™s unique energy, Dotdotdot2 brings a fresh twist to the Seoul coffee scene. They also give you small chocolates to every cup you order! P.s. they are perfect for a night cup or some last minute studying as they have open until dawn!

๐Ÿ•’ 11:00 AM โ€“ 4:00 AM ๐Ÿ“ท https://www.instagram.com/dotdotdot.seoul.2/?utm_source=chatgpt.com


Sojon: (์†Œ์กด:) ๐Ÿ“1st Floor, 5-13 Tongillo 73-gil, Eunpyeong-gu, Seoul, South Korea ์„œ์šธํŠน๋ณ„์‹œ ์€ํ‰๊ตฌ ํ†ต์ผ๋กœ73๊ธธ 5-13, 1์ธต

Nestled in the quiet streets of Yeonsinnae (์—ฐ์‹ ๋‚ด), S0jon (์†Œ์กด:) is a calm and minimalist cafรฉ perfect for those moments when you want to slow down. The space is bright and airy, filled with natural light and simple, clean design that instantly puts you at ease. I love coming here when I need a peaceful spot to sip quality coffee and focusโ€”whether itโ€™s reading, writing, or just taking a break from the city buzz. Their vibe is understated but inviting, as it is a small place with only couple of tables but super cozy making it a great escape without the usual cafรฉ noise.

๐Ÿ•’ 10:00 AM โ€“ 8:00 PM; Holidays: 10:00 AM โ€“ 6:00 PM; Closed every Sunday and Monday in May (last order one hour before closing) ๐Ÿ“ท https://www.instagram.com/s0__jon/


P.S. Mondal (๋ฌธ๋‹ฌ) ๐Ÿ“22 Tongillo 78-gil, Eunpyeong-gu, Seoul, South Korea ์„œ์šธ ์€ํ‰๊ตฌ ํ†ต์ผ๋กœ78๊ธธ 22

It isnโ€™t exactly a cafรฉ, but it definitely deserves a huge shoutout for its incredible cakes and pastries. Their cheesecake, in particular, is simply outstanding same goes for the strawberry cake! The only downside? Itโ€™s strictly takeoutโ€”thereโ€™s no seating area to linger and enjoy your treats. Still, itโ€™s totally worth a visit if youโ€™re craving something sweet on the go!

๐Ÿ•’ 12:00 PM to 9:00 PM (Closed on Sundays and Mondays) ๐Ÿ“ท https://www.instagram.com/moondal_/


These are just five of my favorite cafรฉs in Yeonsinnae (์—ฐ์‹ ๋‚ด), each with its own unique charm and vibe. Whether youโ€™re looking for a cozy nook to work, a stylish spot to catch up with friends, or simply a quiet place to enjoy great coffee and desserts, these cafรฉs have got you covered. I hope you get a chance to visit them and find your own special corner in this vibrant neighborhood. Happy cafรฉ hopping!

And for nowโ€ฆ

โ€ฆstay tuned

Au revoir

โ€“ M

Wanderlog -> Ancient capital of Japan: Kyoto, Nara, Osaka

Hey beautiful friends & enemies~

Recently, I had the chance to hop over to Japan for the weekend with my mum! I had work to do in Seoul, so I figuredโ€”why not take her along and turn it into a little side adventure? It was her very first time in Japan (cue dramatic gasp!), while it was my third time visiting the countryโ€”but my first time exploring the Kyoto and Osaka area. Even more exciting, it was also the first time the two of us traveled this far just the two of us. And let me tell youโ€ฆ it was a whole vibe. Still, we definitely missed my lil sister, thoughโ€”she couldnโ€™t join us because of exams and her sports games. Donโ€™t worry sis, next time youโ€™re coming too!

Japan just has this magical energy that always makes me feel special. Itโ€™s hands down one of my favorite places to travel. We spent a couple of nights in Osaka and one in Kyoto.

Osaka (ๅคง้˜ชๅธ‚), Japanโ€™s third-largest city, is a lively hub of culture, cuisine, and commerce in the Kansai region (้–ข่ฅฟๅœฐๆ–น) on Honshu (ๆœฌๅทž). Home to about 2.7 million peopleโ€”and over 19 million in the greater metro areaโ€”it’s one of the worldโ€™s largest urban centers. Known as the โ€œnationโ€™s kitchenโ€ (ๅคฉไธ‹ใฎๅฐๆ‰€) during the Edo period for its role in food distribution, Osaka remains a culinary capital today, famous for takoyaki (ใŸใ“็„ผใ) and okonomiyaki (ใŠๅฅฝใฟ็„ผใ). Locals are known for their humor, friendly nature, and Osaka-ben (ๅคง้˜ชๅผ) dialect.

Of course, no trip of mine is complete without a little chaos. The first surprise happened right at the airport, where my dizzy head managed to leave my phone in the toilet… and then exit the terminal, where giant signs everywhere screamed โ€œNO RE-ENTRY.โ€ Classic me, right? Somehow, the travel gods were smiling on me because a super kind airport worker actually helped me get back inโ€”and I was reunited with my phone, aka my whole life. But here comes the real culture shock: when I was thanking him for his help, he gave me a light slap on the butt. Uhhhโ€ฆ is that a thing here? ๐Ÿ˜‚ Iโ€™m still not sure if I should be confused, flattered, or mildly concernedโ€”but hey, the journey officially began! ๐Ÿš…

Next stop: our hotel adventure. We stayed at Hotel Alps in Osaka, and while the location was perfect, the staff were lovely, and the price was super reasonableโ€”there was just one tiny detail the English booking site forgot to mention: it was a love hotel. Yep, you read that right. Now before you panicโ€”it was actually a great stay! The room was super clean, the jacuzzi was a vibe, and honestly, Iโ€™d recommend it for anyone whoโ€™s open to, letโ€™s say, unique cultural experiences. But letโ€™s just say, my mum had her first little cultural shock when we walked in and saw a girl in a full-on maid costume next to a drunk guy at the self check-in counterโ€ฆ clearly not a romantic couple. My mum just looked at me and whispered, โ€œTheyโ€™reโ€ฆ probably not together, right?โ€ ๐Ÿ˜‚

Our first night in Osaka was all about soaking in the energy of the cityโ€”and where better to start than the iconic Dotonbori (้“้ “ๅ €)? The area buzzes with neon lights, sizzling street food, and a chaotic charm that pulls you right in. Of course, we couldn’t skip the legendary Glico Man (a.k.a. glitchy guy in all the best tourist selfies).

We hopped on a small boat cruise through the Dotonbori canal, letting the reflections of the city lights ripple around us while sipping on a well-earned beer. Floating past the glowing signs and laughter echoing from riverside restaurants was the perfect way to wind down our first day. Simple, magical.

The next morning, we had a light breakfast at our (love lol) hotel and we set our sights on Osaka Castle (ๅคง้˜ชๅŸŽ)โ€”but instead of hopping on a train, we decided to walk. A full hour of wandering through the waking city, coffee in hand, side streets waiting to be discovered. Our first stop? Kuromon Ichiba Market (้ป’้–€ๅธ‚ๅ ด)โ€”Osakaโ€™s beloved local market known for fresh seafood, fruit, and all kinds of try-worthy bites. We grabbed our first coffee here (because priorities), before strolling onward.

As we made our way toward the castle, we also had time to explore some of Osakaโ€™s quieter cornersโ€”lovely little streets lined with plants and peaceful Shinto (็ฅž้“) and Buddhist (ไปๆ•™) shrines. Shinto, meaning “the way of the gods,” is Japanโ€™s indigenous spirituality focused on harmony with nature and respect for kami (็ฅž)โ€”spiritual beings or deities that are believed to inhabit natural objects and landscapes. These shrines, often tucked between modern buildings or nestled in quiet corners, offer a moment of calm away from the cityโ€™s fast pace. Incense in the air, the gentle ringing of bells, and the soft shuffle of footsteps on stone pathsโ€”small moments that felt surprisingly grounding.

Not long after, we stumbled upon a small, clean, and beautifully minimal cafรฉ called Hikaru Coffee Roasters. Highly recommend itโ€”great beans, calm vibes, and just the right kind of spot to sit and breathe in the city.

It was definitely time for lunch, so we headed to a cozy underground ramen shop. We were the only foreigners there, which felt a bit awkward at first, but the owners were incredibly friendly and welcoming! The atmosphere was authentic, and the ramen was absolutely deliciousโ€”just the comfort food we needed.

Finally, we arrived at Osaka Castle (ๅคง้˜ชๅŸŽ), originally built in 1583 by Toyotomi Hideyoshi (่ฑŠ่‡ฃ็ง€ๅ‰), is a symbol of Osakaโ€™s rich history. The striking five-story tower, with its white and gold exterior, offers beautiful views of the surrounding Osaka Castle Park (ๅคง้˜ชๅŸŽๅ…ฌๅœ’), especially during sakura (ๆกœ) season when cherry blossoms are in full bloom. Inside, the castle has been modernized into a museum, showcasing exhibits about its history and Hideyoshi’s life. Whether you’re a history lover or just seeking a peaceful escape in the heart of Osaka, Osaka Castle is a must-visit for its blend of beauty and significance.

After an adventurous walk through the park. To rest our feet and enjoy the view, we hopped on one of the little tour carts that circle the castle groundsโ€”a fun and breezy way to take it all in. All around us, families were out enjoying hanami (่Šฑ่ฆ‹), the beloved Japanese tradition of cherry blossom viewing. The sakura (ๆกœ) trees were in full bloom, painting the park in soft shades of pink and white. It was such a joyful atmosphereโ€”picnic blankets, laughter, bento boxes, and petals fluttering in the wind. A perfect spring day in the heart of Osaka.

We wrapped up the day with yet another delicious mealโ€”because in Osaka, food adventures are never in short supply. This time, we stumbled into a more unexpected omakase (ใŠไปปใ›) experienceโ€”not in a fancy restaurant, but in a cozy local bar. It was casual, spontaneous, and totally authenticโ€”the kind of place where the chef chats with you while preparing each dish right behind the counter. Definitely a fun twist on the usual omakase! Afterwards, we took one last evening stroll through Dotonbori (้“้ “ๅ €), soaking in the electric atmosphere. The crowds, the glowing neon signs, the sound of laughter and sizzling street foodโ€”all of it created that unmistakable Osaka vibe. It was the perfect farewell to a city that never stops buzzing.

The next morning, we set off for Kyoto (ไบฌ้ƒฝ), Japanโ€™s ancient capital and cultural heart. Kyoto, home to around 1.45 million people, is renowned for its rich history, preserved architecture, and spiritual heritage. Once the imperial capital of Japan for over a thousand years, it remains a place where the past lives in harmony with the present. The city is famous for its thousands of Shinto shrines and Buddhist temples, centuries-old gardens, and traditional wooden townhouses (machiya ็”บๅฎถ). One of the most iconic aspects of Kyoto is its geisha (่Šธ่€…) culture. In the historic district of Gion (็ฅ‡ๅœ’), you might catch a glimpse of a maiko (่ˆžๅฆ“)โ€”an apprentice geishaโ€”gracefully moving through the streets in ornate kimono, a symbol of refined beauty and tradition. Kyotoโ€™s timeless charm lies in these moments: quiet, fleeting, and full of grace.

The train we had boared sped through the countryside, and out the windows unfolded a breathtaking viewโ€”delicate cherry blossoms in full bloom, soft pink petals drifting against winding rivers, and small traditional villages. It already felt like we had stepped into a dream. We wasted no time and headed straight to one of its most iconic sites: Fushimi Inari Taisha (ไผ่ฆ‹็จฒ่ทๅคง็คพ), also known as the “Shrine of a Thousand Gates” (ๅƒๆœฌ้ณฅๅฑ…). Fushimi Inari is famous for its seemingly endless path of bright red torii gates (้ณฅๅฑ…), winding their way up Mount Inari (็จฒ่ทๅฑฑ). Each gate along the trail has been donated by individuals or businesses, their inscriptions (ๅฅ‰็ด, meaning “dedication”) wishing for prosperity and good fortune. Walking through the tunnels of vermilion gates feels almost otherworldly โ€” the sunlight filters through the gaps, casting shifting patterns of red and gold along the stone paths.

The hike itself is surprisingly peaceful. Though the first stretch near the entrance is bustling with visitors, as you climb higher up the mountain, the crowds thin out. The air grows cooler and the atmosphere quieter. Along the way, we passed smaller shrines, fox statues (็‹ๅƒ, kitsune-zล) โ€” foxes are considered sacred messengers of the god Inari), and breathtaking overlooks where you can catch glimpses of Kyoto sprawling out below.

The full hike to the summit and back can take about two hours if you walk at a relaxed pace, but even a shorter walk up the mountain offers a truly magical experience. We still made it to the end and eventually enjoyed a traditional tea stop while on our way back down. Fushimi Inari wasnโ€™t just a place to sightsee โ€” it felt like a journey through history (ๆญดๅฒ), nature (่‡ช็„ถ), and spirit (็ฒพ็ฅž), all woven together in the shifting light of thousands of red gates.

Afterwards, it was time to check in. We were eager to stay in a private, authentic Japanese place rather than a hotel, so I booked a traditional-style Airbnbโ€”and it definitely did not disappoint. Through the bathroom window, we could see a serene private garden. It truly felt like a dream. And I must stay the beds was just amazingly conformable.

Then we set off to explore Gion (็ฅ‡ๅœ’), and I must admitโ€”it truly felt like a dream.

You can probably tell by now just how much I adore sakura (ๆกœ) seasonโ€”despite suffering from the worldโ€™s worst allergies, haha! We continued our stroll along the lively Yasaka Street (ๅ…ซๅ‚้€š), where the iconic Yasaka Pagoda (ๅ…ซๅ‚ใฎๅก”, Yasaka no Tล) suddenly appeared between the narrow, winding alleysโ€”a postcard-perfect moment. And yesโ€ฆ I may or may not have had about 74 ice creams that day. But hey, whoโ€™s counting when youโ€™re in Kyoto during spring?

On our way, we caught a glimpse of the large Buddha statue at Rokuharamitsu-ji (ๅ…ญๆณข็พ…่œœๅฏบ), but only from a distance, as we were hurrying toward Kiyomizu-dera (ๆธ…ๆฐดๅฏบ), the temple on the hill. Its gates close at 6 PM, and we were determined to make it in time. Along the way, we learned something touching: the small stone statues dressed in red scarves are called Jizล (ๅœฐ่”ต), protectors of children, especially those who have passed away. It was both moving and meaningful to discover this tradition amidst such a beautiful setting.

After our dreamy stroll through Gion (็ฅ‡ๅœ’), we headed off in search of dinner. We finally sat down for a mealโ€”and it was absolutely incredible. The rain was pouring down, and it took us quite a while to find a spot. I have to admit, in moments like these, I often feel a bit shy about searching for a restaurant, especially when everything is packed. But, as fate would have it, we ended up in a hidden gem that served an unforgettable dinner.

Back at our traditional-style Airbnb, we enjoyed the cozy low table and floor cushions (zabuton ๅบงๅธƒๅ›ฃ) with some convenience store (konbini ใ‚ณใƒณใƒ“ใƒ‹) ice creamโ€”a perfect, quiet way to end the evening.

The next morning, our to-do list was still full of Kyoto magic. We kicked off the day in a unique cafรฉ that served ice cream for breakfast (yes, really!). The place had white tablecloths, polished service, and all the waiters wore white glovesโ€”it felt like stepping into a retro film set. Super cool! Afterward some more coffee! Then we strolled through Nishiki Market (้Œฆๅธ‚ๅ ด), a bustling covered arcade filled with local delicacies, snacks, and souvenirs. We even saw a shrine built direct in the middle of it. From there, we made our way toward Nijล Castle (ไบŒๆกๅŸŽ, Nijล-jล), one of Kyotoโ€™s most important historical landmarks.

Arriving at Nijล Castle, we took a walk around the impressive stone walls and traditional gates before getting our tickets. The castle, built in 1603 as the Kyoto residence of Tokugawa Ieyasuโ€”the first shogun of the Edo periodโ€”was unlike anything I had imagined. Inside, it was strikingly empty: no elaborate furniture or decorations like you might expect in a European castle. Instead, the minimalist design, sliding doors (fusuma ่ฅ–), and singing tatami floors (็•ณ) reflected the refined aesthetics of Japanese architecture. P.s. inside the castle it was not allowed to take pictures.

And of course… I had to add a bit of drama to the trip. I lost my phone. I only realized it much laterโ€”right when we wanted to take a photo of the cherry blossoms. Panic set in: my phone held everythingโ€”tickets, maps, cards, Google Translate, and basically my brain. I really need to be more careful. I admit it.. But luckily, this story has a happy ending. After a frantic search and some deep breathing, I found it at the lost and found office at the castle. Shoutout to my mum for staying calm through it allโ€”youโ€™re the real MVP.

After our visit to Nijล Castle (ไบŒๆกๅŸŽ), we made our way to one of Kyotoโ€™s most iconic sights: Kinkaku-ji (้‡‘้–ฃๅฏบ), the famous Golden Pavilion. This shimmering temple, officially named Rokuon-ji (้นฟ่‹‘ๅฏบ), is covered in gold leaf and reflected beautifully in the surrounding pondโ€”a sight that feels straight out of a dream.

Our final stop in Kyoto was Arashiyama (ๅตๅฑฑ), a scenic district on the western edge of the city. We boarded the train, excited for the adventure ahead. As it was sakura (ๆกœ) season, the journey itself felt like part of the experience. Sadly, the rain started againโ€”but nothing too bad. Luckily, my mom, always super prepared, had an umbrella. I ended up buying an adorable one from a charming traditional cafรฉ where we stopped for a sweet treat. There, we enjoyed kakigลri (ใ‹ใๆฐท)โ€”shaved ice with a delicate pear flavorโ€”and a warm matcha (ๆŠน่Œถ) drink served with small round grilled rice cakes, yaki-dango (็„ผใๅ›ฃๅญ). It was the perfect little pause.

We then walked through the lush, rain-soaked Japanese gardens, which are actually part of a UNESCO World Heritage site. Despite the drizzle, the atmosphere was magicalโ€”misty trees, moss-covered stones, and that serene quiet you can only find in Japan. We also squeezed in a quick stroll through the Arashiyama Bamboo Grove (็ซนๆž—ใฎๅฐๅพ„). Even though we were short on time and had to rush a bit, the experience was still incredible. The towering bamboo and the ethereal light filtering through gave everything a surreal, almost otherworldly feelโ€”like walking through an ancient ethnographic painting.

From there, we made our way to Nara (ๅฅˆ่‰ฏ), a city famous for its sacred deer and ancient temples. Sadly, by the time we arrived, most of the major sights had already closed for the dayโ€”including Tลdai-ji (ๆฑๅคงๅฏบ), home to Japanโ€™s largest bronze Buddha, the impressive Daibutsu (ๅคงไป). Although we couldnโ€™t see it up close, we still enjoyed a peaceful evening stroll around Sarusawa Pond (็Œฟๆฒขๆฑ ), watching the gentle ripples and the pagoda reflections as the sun set.

Of course, we didnโ€™t miss out on saying hello to some of Naraโ€™s beloved deer (shika, ้นฟ), who bowed politely in hopes of a snack. And yesโ€”I absolutely caved and bought the cutest yukata (ๆตด่กฃ) as a souvenir. Naturally, I turned the quiet park into my personal photoshoot spot and had my ever-patient mom snap about a hundred photos. Thanks, Mom! ๐Ÿ˜„

It was truly bittersweet when it came time to head home. Our trip felt far too short, and thereโ€™s still so much more left to explore. But above all, the most special part was the precious time spent with my momโ€”sharing laughs, adventures, and unforgettable memories. Iโ€™ll definitely be back one day to relive these beautiful momentsโ€ฆ and to create even more.

And for nowโ€ฆ

โ€ฆstay tuned

Au revoir

โ€“ M

Wanderlog -> Paradise Found: Our Jeju Island Weekend Escape

This summer, I returned to Jeju Island for the third time, but it was a special tripโ€”my first time back since the pandemic. It had been a long-anticipated getaway with my boyfriend, who, like many, struggles to get vacation time approved at work. Originally, we had planned a couples’ trip to Yeosu, another beautiful beach destination in Korea, but unfortunately, we had to cancel last minute when he couldn’t get the time off. I have to admit, I was pretty disappointed, thinking our chance for a vacation might slip away entirely. But, just when I thought all hope was lost, we managed to make it work! On August 9th, after he finished work around 6 PM, we boarded a late flight to Jeju with Jeju Air. It felt like the perfect spontaneous weekend escape.

But let’s start from the beginning. Minjun and I met halfway, since his office was on the way to Gimpo International Airport. On the way, he surprised me with a beautiful hat (though, I chose it myself, haha). We caught a late Jeju Air flight, and I was excited for this much-needed getaway.

To save some money, we took the bus instead of a taxi (only less than 2,000 KRW per person, compared to a 20,000 KRW taxi fare). The bus ride took about 35 minutes, while a car wouldโ€™ve been just 20. By the time we got on the bus, it was past 10 PM, and most places were already shut for the night.

We finally arrived at the hotel, and thatโ€™s when things got a little… disappointing. We chose Grabel Hotel which is a modern, 4-star hotel. We chose this hotel actually because it was the closest one to the airport as, well, time was limited. Plus, the hotel has a rooftop pool with amazing ocean views, which I had been dying to check out.

But.. the staff wasnโ€™t very friendly, and we didnโ€™t feel very welcomed. Maybe it was because we didnโ€™t look too fancy (to be fair, we were just two tired travelers), but it felt like we were treated as though we didnโ€™t belong. For example, when we checked in, we werenโ€™t given any info about breakfast. So, when I asked the front desk guy where breakfast was served and how it worked, his response was: โ€œWait… you have breakfast? Really?โ€ Like, seriously? Dude, itโ€™s your job to know this.Whatmore, the hotel didnโ€™t allow food in the rooms (seriously?) unless it was room service, and if we wanted to eat in the room, weโ€™d have to pay a 20,000 Korean Won cleaning fee. The all in experience was a bit of a letdown.

The good news was that we were able to book a nice suite in the hotel, thanks to some luck with Booking.com Genius rewards and discounts! Our room was actually amazingโ€”on a high floor with a spacious bathroom, a big bathtub, a dining area, a lounging space, a TV, and, best of all, a direct view of the ocean. Another great perk was the lounge on our floor, open daily from (I think?) 3 PM to 6 or 7 PM. They had cakes, snacks, cookies, drinks, and even unlimited beerโ€”all free of charge. A total win!

We were starving by this point, so we decided to head out in search of food. After some searching, we found a little local spot and grabbed a bowl of what I think was kimchi jjigaeโ€”it was comforting and delicious, of course, both of our phone batteries had died by then, so we couldnโ€™t even capture the moment. After a satisfying (and late… very late) dinner, we headed back to the hotel, where I took a much-needed bath while dreaming about the next day.

By the way, a quick tip for anyone visiting Jeju: restaurants, cafes, and eateries close really early!

The next day Saturday was all about the beach and endless ocean timeโ€”and honestly, I couldnโ€™t wait to dive in! Our day started with a quick breakfast and then we took the bus to our first beach destination.

This felt like a bit of an adventure, as we were relying on public transportation to explore the island. Luckily, the bus stop was right in front of the hotel, making it super convenient. Oh, and by the way, I have to mentionโ€”I really loved the dress I was wearing. I got it back in 2018, but it’s definitely one of my favorite holiday pieces!

Located about 20 minutes away from Grabel Hotel, Gwakji Beach is known for its warm waters and beautiful scenery. We were excited to spend the day soaking up the sun and taking in the stunning views of the coastline. If you’re planning to visit, here’s the location on Naver Maps for easier navigation. Definitely worth the trip! Obviously we took a stop at the local juice stand to get some tangerine fresh pressed juice (before we stopped at the pharmacy to get some extra allergy pils for me….).

After a fun time at Gwakji Beach (๊ณฝ์ง€ํ•ด์ˆ˜์š•์žฅ), we were pretty sandy and definitely not in the mood to put on our regular clothes. But before hopping on the bus to our next stop, I realized I wasnโ€™t quite comfortable running around in my bathing suit (even though it wasnโ€™t a bikini). So, I quickly popped into a local shop and grabbed an “Fantastic Jeju” shirtโ€”problem solved! Haha.With my new shirt on, we caught the bus to Geumneung Beach (๊ธˆ๋Šฅํ•ด์ˆ˜์š•์žฅ) in Hallim-eup (ํ•œ๋ฆผ์), Jeju. The temperature was a sweltering 34ยฐC, but with the sun cranked up, it felt more like 40ยฐCโ€”definitely a scorcher! You can find Geumneung Beach on Naver Maps if you’re planning to go!

After our second beach trip and a lot more ocean water to cool off, we were definitely feeling tired. But that didnโ€™t stop us! We went to explore the area and found some pretty cute cafes. By the way… I got a pretty bad sunburn… which hurt sososososososoosos bad…

We headed straight to the rooftop pool at the hotel, grabbed some cocktails (which were actually includedโ€”score!), and relaxed while enjoying the stunning sunset.

By the way can you feel the pain of my sun burn…? >.< The day wrapped up with us enjoying some of the hotelโ€™s facilities, and of course, I ended it perfectly with a relaxing bath.

The next morning, we had breakfast again and set off to explore more of Jeju. Unfortunately, I couldnโ€™t swim in the ocean anymore because, well… it was that time again. But instead, we made the most of the dayโ€”we went horseback riding, visited a gallery, and even took a canoe out on the shore. Even though I was pretty sad about missing out on another ocean swim, the dayโ€™s highlight more than made up for it! But before I get to thatโ€”first, let me show off my OOTD because I absolutely loved it. Here are some pictures, haha!

Our first stop was the horse farm, and wow, it had been a long time since I last sat on a horse! I used to ride when I was littleโ€”around 5 or 6 years oldโ€”back when I lived in Hungary. Later, I took horseback riding classes again in boarding school in Denmark. But believe it or not, the last time I was actually on a horse was ten years ago! And a random fun factโ€”one of the zombie attack scenes from the Korean Netflix drama Kingdom was actually filmed on the other side of the horse farm! Haha, kind of wild to think about while casually riding a horse.

Then, the super nice guy from the horse farmโ€”or actually, his wifeโ€”drove us to the gallery. She even recommended some great local restaurants that only the locals know about. Such a sweet gesture!

We saw a really unique exhibition on Jeju artist their life, and also ํ•ด๋…€ (haenyeo)โ€”the legendary female divers of Jeju. These incredible women free-dive deep into the ocean without oxygen tanks to harvest seafood, carrying on a centuries-old tradition. It was fascinating to learn more about their history and way of life!

Then we headed to a so-called “hip” area near Hamdeok Beach (ํ•จ๋•ํ•ด๋ณ€), known for its charming cafรฉs, trendy restaurants, and cute shops that attract tons of tourists. The vibe was super lively, and it was fun just strolling around and soaking it all in! Eventually, we caught a glimpse of the canoes and decided to give it a try. At first, it was super fun, but at some points, the waves got pretty intense, making it a little scary. At least they gave us these cute waterproof skirts to keep us from getting completely soakedโ€”haha, a small but much-needed fashionable accent… who knew canoeing could be this stylish? ๐Ÿ˜‚๐Ÿšฃโ€โ™€๏ธ Oh, and before hopping into the see-through canoe, they also gave us slippers to change intoโ€”because, obviously, wet shoes are not the vibe

After such an adventure, we definitely needed something sweet to cool down, lift our spirits, and reward ourselves for all the excitement (and slight terror) we had just experienced on the water! So, of course, we went on the hunt for a cozy cafรฉ to indulge in some well-deserved treats. To be honest.. we went to two cafes..

Finally our highlight of the trip! Minjun had the best ideaโ€”renting Kakao Bikes to ride back to the hotel. We thought it would be a quick and easy ride, but we totally misjudged the distance. The bike paths were set in a way that took us on a much longer route, and we ended up biking for nearly two hours! But honestly, it was breathtakingโ€”riding along Jejuโ€™s coastal roads felt like paradise on earth.

For those who donโ€™t know, Kakao Bikes are shared electric bikes you can rent through the Kakao T app. Theyโ€™re super convenient, and you can pick them up and drop them off at designated spots around the city.

I must admit I have never seen something this beautiful. That was until the sun started to setโ€ฆ ๐Ÿ˜ฌ After about 40 minutes of biking, even with the help of the electric motor, things got a little too intense. It got dark fast, and at times, the path was way too close to the cliffsโ€”like, we could hear the waves crashing 300 meters below, just centimeters from our wheels. And guess what? No real fences. OMG, way too scary. The moment we found a return station, we ditched the bikes and took the bus for the last three stops. But oh godโ€ฆ the bus was packed! We were exhausted, squished like sardines, but at least we made it back in one piece. What a ride!

The day ended with some room service and we enjoyed the last night of our vacation.And the next day came in a blink of an eye.

Then, eventually, we finally took a taxi (wow, we actually didnโ€™t take the bus this time, haha) to the airport. We grabbed some coffee, and of course, I couldnโ€™t resist picking up some cookies only available in Jeju from Paris Baguette (save my soul). The nutty caramel smell was absolutely driving me crazy while I was waiting for boarding.

We boarded the flight, and I was off to get a โ€œvacation for my vacation,โ€ while Minjun had to head straight to workโ€”yep, we took the morning flight, and he had to dive right into a couple of overnight shifts. He works in news for a broadcasting station, helping with camerawork, so there was no rest for him!

And this was it for the trip to “paradice on earth”

P.s. very random factโ€”the first time I ever heard about Jeju Island was through the K-drama Paradise Ranch (ํŒŒ๋ผ๋‹ค์ด์Šค ๋ชฉ์žฅ). Itโ€™s an old-school rom-com from 2011, set against Jejuโ€™s stunning landscapes, and follows a young couple who impulsively marry at 19, divorce soon after, and then fatefully reunite years later. Classic K-drama chaos! I remember watching it and falling in love with Jejuโ€™s scenic beaches, green fields, and horseback riding scenesโ€”who knew Iโ€™d actually experience all of that myself one day?

I think I should definitely re-watch it sometimeโ€ฆ of course, only after I finish writing my thesis. Wellโ€ฆ hopefully by summer. ๐Ÿคž๐Ÿ˜‚

And for nowโ€ฆ

โ€ฆstay tuned

Au revoir

โ€“ M

Seoul Odyssey Diaries -> I am Back

From the beginning of June I’m back in S. Korea, Seoul. It’s been a while since I last wrote something (I know, I always start my posts by apologizing for my absence…).

A lot has happened since my last update. More than a year has passed, and I actually spent June to December of 2023 in Korea, working at the Lithuanian Embassy and conducting my PhD research. After returning to Lithuania, I started teaching courses on Korea at Vytautas Magnus University (VMU) in Kaunas again. I also got engaged (yey).

I had promised myself that I would document my last journey in Korea, creating a diary-like record to look back on. Unfortunately, I failed to do so, and I’m quite upset about it. To prevent this from happening again, I’ve decided to set a goal of updating my blog once a week. I’ll write down the most important events, even if it’s just a couple of sentences, with some pictures to capture the moments.

Soooo… this said. I am back in Korea! This time, I was fortunate to win a Korea Foundation grant for PhD field study and research in South Korea, affiliated with Sogang University. I still have quite a bit of work left to do with my thesis, including collecting more interviews with middle and high school history teachers and delving deeper into the narration of Korean history. If everything goes according to plan, I will be able to defend my thesis next fall. Until then, I have to stay focused and keep working.

Since I came here for my research, having a dedicated workspace was a top priority for me. I tend to work best at night (not the healthiest schedule, I know), so having a home office usually works better for me than an actual office or library. I wanted to create a space at home that inspires me to work, and I think I did a pretty good job setting up a decent workspace. But I think I will do a separate interior post.

I mustn’t forget to mention my beloved lizard, my baby boy Kuki (aka Cookie), who is actually a blue-tongued skink. He’s finally returned home, and I owe a tremendous thank you to the gracious family of Lithuania’s Ambassador. They took care of him while I was in Lithuania, showing immense kindness and generosity.

There are a lot of things I still want to share with you, but for now, just a short greeting from Seoul.

And for nowโ€ฆ

โ€ฆstay tuned

Au revoir

โ€“ M

Wanderlog -> first time in Hanoi, Vietnam

Hey beautiful friends & enemies~

Vietnam has always been a curious destination for me, and I finally got the chance to explore its vibrant capital, Hanoi in summer 2023. It was a 3 nights 4 days trip. From the bustling streets filled with motorbikes to the historic architecture that blends French colonial past with traditional Vietnamese elements, Hanoi is truly a city that captures the essence of the country. In this post, Iโ€™ll share my first impressions of Hanoi, dive into the rich cultural experiences I had, and talk about everything I’ve experienced. So, join me as I explore this incredible city and its unique charm.

I traveled to Vietnam with my friend Jyuni, and of course, I had to encounter some self-inflicted difficulties along the way. Since Jyuni is Korean, she didnโ€™t need a visa to visit Vietnam. But as someone with a European passport, I was in a different situation. Naturally, I completely forgot that I needed a visa! It wasnโ€™t until just three days before our trip, during a casual outing with friends, when someone casually asked, โ€œHey, have you got your visa sorted?โ€ That was my wake-up call. Panic set in as I rushed to complete the online visa registration right away. Thankfully, I managed to get everything sorted just a couple of hours before our flight. I was shaking with nerves up until the last minute! So, folks, a little tip: donโ€™t forget your visa! Trust me, itโ€™s much better to get it sorted early than to face last-minute stress.

Now before we start a quick introduction to the country. Vietnam is a socialist republic with a one-party system, led by the Communist Party of Vietnam. The country has been under communist rule since 1975, after the end of the Vietnam War, when North and South Vietnam were unified. Despite being a communist country, Vietnam has embraced a more market-oriented economy since the ฤแป•i Mแป›i (Renovation) reforms in the late 1980s. These reforms opened door to greater foreign investment and trade, leading to rapid economic growth and development, especially in cities like Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City. However, political freedoms are limited, and the Communist Party maintains tight control over the countryโ€™s governance. Hanoi, the capital, is a fascinating blend of old-world charm and modern energy. As one of the oldest capitals in the world, it boasts centuries-old architecture, like the French-style buildings and historic temples, alongside the hustle and bustle of daily life. The city’s Old Quarter is a maze of narrow streets filled with street food vendors and local shops, offering a deep dive into Vietnamese culture. Hanoi is also famous for its lakes, like Hoan Kiem Lake, which serves as a peaceful retreat in the heart of the city.

With all the excitement of our journey, we boarded the plane and arrived in Hanoi just a few hours later. It was already quite late by the time we landed, so we hopped in a cab and headed straight to our hotel. But of course, no adventure truly begins without a midnight snack, right? Craving something local, we ventured out into the quiet, lantern-lit streetsโ€”and we struck gold. We found a cozy little spot serving pho, the iconic Vietnamese noodle soup. Made with a deeply flavorful broth, silky rice noodles, fresh herbs, and your choice of tender beef (pho bo) or chicken (pho ga), it was everything we needed and more. Light yet satisfying, it hit the spot perfectly after a long day of travel.Of course, we didnโ€™t stop there. We also indulged in some classic Vietnamese bites like crispy spring rolls and juicy slices of fresh mangoโ€”because when in Hanoi, why not start your culinary journey right away?

Our hotel was great, and the buffet breakfast was fantastic. Despite having a severe allergy to fruits, I couldnโ€™t resist stuffing myself with apple mangos (even though I knew better). But.. They were just too delicious!

Unfortunately, the weather didnโ€™t play in our favor. It was extremely humid and hot, yet it was also quite cloudy and rainy at times. Our plan to relax at the hotel pool quickly fell apart as the weather just wasnโ€™t cooperating. But hey, itโ€™s all part of the adventure, right?

On our first day in Vietnam, we went on a motorcycle tour, and it was an absolute blast! It was actually my first time ever riding a motorcycle, which added to the thrill. Before we hit the road, we decided to do something super touristy and bought traditional Vietnamese costumes (ao dai), which was a lot of fun and definitely a cool experience.

Our guides were around our age, young, fluent in English, and, of course, locals. They took us to the must-see tourist attractions, like Hoan Kiem Lake (Hแป“ Hoร n Kiแบฟm) and the famous train street (Ng. 224 Lรช Duแบฉn, ฤแป‘ng ฤa, Hร  Nแป™i, Vietnam), but they also showed us some hidden gems that most tourists donโ€™t know about, which made the experience feel so much more authentic. Along the way, they told us something interesting: in Vietnam, itโ€™s common for women to do most of the hard work, while men often take it easy and relax. Hmm, that was definitely an eye-opener! What more, they introduced couple of local places with amazing food.

Another thing we made sure to do every day (sometimes twice a day!) was get a massage. Whether it was a hot stone, facial, or a back and foot massage, we couldnโ€™t get enough. And the best part? It was incredibly affordableโ€”about 20-30 bucks for a two-hour session. Talk about a deal!

We also ate a lot of local food, but there was one place we couldnโ€™t resist trying: a popular pizzeria that was packed with locals. There was no chance of getting a seat without a reservation. It was a bit of a break from Vietnamese food, but we were definitely glad we gave it a try! And ofc ourse some ice cream with mango as desert! Now, on to the culture shockโ€ฆ As an introvert, I found it a bit nerve-wracking that street vendors and salespeople often tried to grab your hand or touch you while enthusiastically shouting their sales pitch. It definitely took me by surprise, but I guess itโ€™s just part of the hustle and bustle of Vietnamese street life!

The next morning, Jyuni and I set off on our much-anticipated Ha Long Bay tour. We had pre-booked a boat tour, so everything was smooth and easy from the start. As we left Hanoi behind, the scenery quickly turned lush and greenโ€”Vietnamโ€™s countryside in all its peaceful beauty. On the way to the bay, we made a quick but fascinating stop at a pearl farm, where we got to see how pearls are cultivated and harvested. It was such a unique experience, and definitely not something we expected!

Once we reached Ha Long Bay, we boarded our boat and began cruising through the emerald waters, surrounded by towering limestone karsts. Along the way, we took a break and hopped into kayaks, paddling through serene waters and exploring hidden lagoons. It was an incredible way to get up close to the bay’s natural beauty.

Our final stop was a stunning island with caves (I forgot its name.. lol), where we explored dramatic formations that looked like something out of a fantasy movie. The caves were home to bats, adding an extra layer of excitement to our adventure. It was the perfect mix of nature, adventure, and peaceful vibes. Ha Long Bay truly lived up to the hype!

The next day was our last in Hanoi, but since our flight wasnโ€™t until the evening, we had time to squeeze in a bit more exploration. We started our day with a relaxing coffee at a local cafรฉ, then set out to enjoy a few more of the cityโ€™s attractions before saying our goodbyes.

We eventually signed up for a cooking classโ€”a perfect final taste of Vietnamese culture. The experience began with a visit to a bustling local market, where we shopped for fresh ingredients alongside our guide. It was a fun and colorful way to see how locals source their produce, herbs, and spices. Back at the kitchen, we rolled up our sleeves and learned how to make a few Vietnamese classics, including the beloved pho and the unique, creamy egg coffee. It was hands-on, delicious, and such a memorable way to wrap up our time in Vietnam before heading to the airport.

And eventually it was now the end of the journey and we had to head back to reality – Seoul.

And for nowโ€ฆ

โ€ฆstay tuned

Au revoir

โ€“ M