Café Chronicles -> Seoul Yeonsinnae 연신내

Hey beautiful friends and enemies~

Here I am again with another part of my Café Chronicles series, where I take you along to my favorite coffee spots. As I’ve mentioned before, one of my greatest joys is soaking in beautiful spaces while sipping on a perfectly brewed cup.

Beyond the hours I spent tucked away in libraries and cozy corners, I also had the chance to work remotely quite a bit during my field research trip — huge shoutout to the Korea Foundation (한국국제교류재단) for making that possible! Back then, I loved grabbing my laptop, heading out for coffee, and switching up my surroundings. And since I was living in Yeonsinnae (연신내) — remember my house hunting in Seoul (서울) post? Haha — I made it my personal mission to explore the local café scene and see what hidden gems I could find. That said, I want to share a couple of my favorite places with you. I’ll just list five (even though there are a few more!) so this post doesn’t get too long.

YM COFFEE HOUSE (YM커피하우스) 📍 21-8 Yeonseo-ro 29-gil, Eunpyeong-gu, Seoul, South Korea 서울특별시 은평구 연서로29길 21-8

Tucked away in the heart of Yeonsinnae (연신내), YM COFFEE HOUSE (YM 커피하우스) is a cozy gem set in a former traditional Korean home. With warm wooden interiors, vintage touches, and soft lighting, it’s the perfect spot to relax for hours. The open coffee bar lets you watch skilled baristas craft hand-drip coffees (핸드드립 커피), turning each cup into a true craft. Their dedication to quality shines through every sip, and their desserts—especially the crème brûlée and tiramisu—are absolutely delicious. Plus, it’s super work-friendly. I often came here to work on my thesis or write blog posts, thanks to the inviting yet focused atmosphere. If you’re in 연신내, make sure to stop by. Whether for coffee, a quiet read, or a cozy work session, YM COFFEE HOUSE won’t disappoint. Bonus: you can also buy their roasted beans to take home, ground or whole.

🕒 11:30 AM – 11:00 PM (Closed on Tuesdays) 📷https://www.instagram.com/ymcoffeeproject?utm_source=chatgpt.com


FLUP Coffee (플럽커피) 📍 3rd Floor, 7-11 Yeonseo-ro 29-gil, Eunpyeong-gu, Seoul, South Korea 서울 은평구 연서로29길 7-11 3층

Nestled on the 3rd floor in the Yeonsinnae (연신내) neighborhood, FLUP Coffee (플럽커피) offers a peaceful escape from the city’s hustle with its sleek, modern vibe. The café’s design is simple yet sophisticated, featuring clean lines and a soft, muted color palette that creates the perfect environment for focused work or a relaxing coffee break. Their minimalist philosophy carries through from the stylish interior to the carefully curated menu, where every cup of coffee is crafted with precision and care. While their selection of desserts is delightful and the coffee consistently good, it’s the serene atmosphere and refined aesthetic that keep me coming back time and again. Whether you’re settling in with your laptop or diving into a good book, FLUP Coffee is a quiet haven in the heart of the city.

🕒 12:00 PM – 10:00 PM (Daily) 📷 https://www.instagram.com/flupcoffee/


HOB AND NOB COFFEE (홉앤놉 커피) 📍2nd Floor, 811 Tongil-ro, Eunpyeong-gu, Seoul, South Korea 서울특별시 은평구 통일로 811, 2층

Located in Eunpyeong-gu (은평구), Seoul, HOB AND NOB COFFEE (홉앤놉 커피) is approximately a 5-minute walk from Yeonsinnae Station (연신내역). A cozy café known for its warm ambiance is definitely worth checking out! The café’s interior features clean lines, natural wood accents, and ample natural light (love the biiig window), creating a serene environment perfect for both relaxation and productivity. Their menu offers a selection of expertly brewed coffees and delightful desserts, making it a favorite spot for locals and visitors alike. Their French toast is really soooo good!

🕒12:00 PM – 8:00 PM (Closed on Wednesdays) 📷https://www.instagram.com/hob_n_nob/?utm_source=chatgpt.com


Dotdotdot2 (닷닷닷2) 📍 1st Floor, 21 Yeonseo-ro 27-gil, Eunpyeong-gu, Seoul, South Korea 서울 은평구 연서로27길 21 1층

Just a quick 7-minute walk from Yeonsinnae Station (연신내역), Dotdotdot2 (닷닷닷2) stands out as a trendy café where modern design meets a lively, hip atmosphere. The space feels effortlessly cool — think bold pops of color, quirky art, and a laid-back yet energetic vibe that makes it a favorite hangout for creatives and coffee lovers alike. Their menu isn’t just about great coffee; it’s a playground of flavors and aesthetics. From beautifully crafted lattes to eye-catching dessert plates, every order feels like a little celebration. Whether you’re snapping photos for the ‘gram or just soaking up the café’s unique energy, Dotdotdot2 brings a fresh twist to the Seoul coffee scene. They also give you small chocolates to every cup you order! P.s. they are perfect for a night cup or some last minute studying as they have open until dawn!

🕒 11:00 AM – 4:00 AM 📷 https://www.instagram.com/dotdotdot.seoul.2/?utm_source=chatgpt.com


Sojon: (소존:) 📍1st Floor, 5-13 Tongillo 73-gil, Eunpyeong-gu, Seoul, South Korea 서울특별시 은평구 통일로73길 5-13, 1층

Nestled in the quiet streets of Yeonsinnae (연신내), S0jon (소존:) is a calm and minimalist café perfect for those moments when you want to slow down. The space is bright and airy, filled with natural light and simple, clean design that instantly puts you at ease. I love coming here when I need a peaceful spot to sip quality coffee and focus—whether it’s reading, writing, or just taking a break from the city buzz. Their vibe is understated but inviting, as it is a small place with only couple of tables but super cozy making it a great escape without the usual café noise.

🕒 10:00 AM – 8:00 PM; Holidays: 10:00 AM – 6:00 PM; Closed every Sunday and Monday in May (last order one hour before closing) 📷 https://www.instagram.com/s0__jon/


P.S. Mondal (문달) 📍22 Tongillo 78-gil, Eunpyeong-gu, Seoul, South Korea 서울 은평구 통일로78길 22

It isn’t exactly a café, but it definitely deserves a huge shoutout for its incredible cakes and pastries. Their cheesecake, in particular, is simply outstanding same goes for the strawberry cake! The only downside? It’s strictly takeout—there’s no seating area to linger and enjoy your treats. Still, it’s totally worth a visit if you’re craving something sweet on the go!

🕒 12:00 PM to 9:00 PM (Closed on Sundays and Mondays) 📷 https://www.instagram.com/moondal_/


These are just five of my favorite cafés in Yeonsinnae (연신내), each with its own unique charm and vibe. Whether you’re looking for a cozy nook to work, a stylish spot to catch up with friends, or simply a quiet place to enjoy great coffee and desserts, these cafés have got you covered. I hope you get a chance to visit them and find your own special corner in this vibrant neighborhood. Happy café hopping!

And for now…

…stay tuned

Au revoir

– M

Café Chronicles -> Sogang Univ.

Hey beautiful friends & enemies~

As a proud Sogang child, I’ve spent countless hours on and around Sogang University (서강대학교)—whether it’s studying, training with my racquetball club, or just enjoying the familiar atmosphere. Back in 2017-2018, I first came here as an exchange student, and in 2024, I was back for my PhD research, once again calling Sogang my academic home. Naturally, after all this time, I’ve developed a deep love for certain places around campus, some of which have been my go-to spots for years, while others are new favorites that I’ve recently discovered. Here are some of my top picks around Sogang!

Alles Coffee (알레스 커피) – An absolute OG, standing strong since 2015. I’ve already raved about it in a previous post, so I’ll just link it here for anyone interested. Café Chronicles -> Seoul: alles Café 알레스카페 Trust me, it’s worth checking out! https://www.instagram.com/allescafe2015/


Kauf Rosters (카우프 커피 로스터스) -o, I absolutely love their cold brew (콜드브루)—it’s smooth, rich, and just the perfect pick-me-up. And what’s even more exciting? They recently launched a new menu, featuring an Injeolmi Tiramisu (인절미 티라미수) that’s seriously so good! If you’re a fan of traditional Korean flavors with a modern twist, this one is a must-try. Another standout from their menu is their special drink with coconut ice cream —a unique and refreshing combo that totally hit the spot. Overall, everything here is really solid, but if we’re talking about black coffee, this place really knows what they’re doing. What more the cafe has a sleek, industrial-style interior with raw concrete walls, dark tones, and minimalist decor. The space is well-balanced with modern lighting and large windows that add warmth to the moody atmosphere. Clean lines, dark wood furniture, and an open barista station create a stylish yet cozy setting perfect for coffee lovers. Its design perfectly blends modern sophistication with industrial elements, creating a refined yet edgy ambiance that feels both trendy and timeless. Definitely a must-visit for coffee lovers! https://www.instagram.com/kaufff.roasters/


Hawfinch (호핀치) – This place holds a special place in my heart because of their banana pudding, and by now, everyone knows about my obsession with it. Especially their chocolate version of it… Mhmm… The interior is a blend of earthy tones, natural wood, and soft lighting, creating a warm and inviting space for coffee lovers. It is highly praised for its high-quality coffee and carefully curated menu, offering a variety of hand-drip coffee, espresso-based drinks, and unique seasonal specials. Their latte art is stunning, making every cup feel extra special. Beyond the drinks, Café Hawfinch also serves delicious homemade desserts and pastries. If you’re lucky, you might even get a taste of their freshly baked goods, straight from the oven. The aroma inside is always incredible, making it the perfect spot to indulge in something sweet while sipping on a perfectly brewed coffee. I usually grab my morning coffee from here, as their cold brew is right up my alley—smooth, strong, and absolutely delicious. If you love aesthetic cafés with a focus on quality coffee, this place is definitely worth a visit. https://www.instagram.com/cafe.hawfinch/


The Credit (더크레딧) – one of my all-time favorite spots, and I find myself visiting almost every day. This café offers a cozy, laid-back atmosphere that makes it an ideal place to relax and enjoy high-quality coffee. The minimalist interior design perfectly matches the vibe, creating a calm, peaceful environment to either get some work done. The coffee here is consistently exceptional, and their drip coffee—both hot and cold—is my go-to. I also tried their latte variations, pretty good. In addition to their great coffee, they have a nice selection of teas. Another highlight is their French toast, which is absolutely delicious. One of the best parts is that The Credit also functions as a bar, so it’s the perfect place to unwind with a glass of wine or a gin tonic after a long day. The staff is friendly, adding to the welcoming vibe, and the ambiance is perfect for spending time with friends or just enjoying some time alone. All in all, it’s a great spot for coffee lovers, casual hangouts, or even a nightcap. https://www.instagram.com/cafe_the_credit/


Biroso Coffee (비로소 커피) – it may not be my most frequent stop, as places like Kauf, Credit, and Hawfinch usually draw me in, but every visit reminds me of just how good their coffee is. Their menu is impressive, and their Einspänner is especially delicious—rich, creamy, and perfectly balanced. What truly makes this spot special is the view; their large window overlooks Gyeongui Line Forest Park (경의선 숲길), or Yeonnam-dong’s Cherry Blossom Road (연남동 벚꽃길), which is absolutely stunning in the spring when the cherry blossoms are in full bloom. As someone who loves rain, this is one of my favorite places to visit when it’s raining. The peaceful vibe and cozy interior make it feel extra magical, especially when the raindrops tap against the window. So, definitely forth a check out. https://www.instagram.com/birosocoffee/


On&Puff – is newly opened charming bakery that combines a cozy atmosphere with the delightful aroma of freshly baked pastries. Specializing in French-style pastries, they also offer pretty decent drinks. I tried their iced americano and iced vanilla latte, both were quite satisfying. I absolutely loved their pain au chocolat and croissants, but everything they offer is delicious. It’s definitely one of the best spots for European-style bread around Sogang. The only downside is the limited seating, with only three tables inside, but the vibe and quality make it totally worth visiting. https://www.instagram.com/on_and_puff/


Calmild (카밀드) – truly lives up to its name—calm and mild. This charming café offers a perfect blend of exceptional coffee and mouthwatering food, all in a serene, minimalist environment. The space exudes warmth and comfort, making it an ideal spot to unwind or focus on some work (during the quieter hours of course). I’m a big fan of their iced Americano, which never disappoints, and their tuna sandwich is a must-try, although it’s a bit on the pricier side. Additionally, their French toast is another standout item that I absolutely love. Whether you’re in the mood for a coffee break or a light meal, Calmild delivers both in a cozy and inviting atmosphere. I do enjoy visiting it quite frequently, although I must admit, I don’t go too often due to their prices. https://www.instagram.com/calmild_home/


Cafe Anon (카페안온) – I’m mentioning this place mainly because of their Sogum Bang (소금빵) or also called Salt bread, which is absolutely one of the best I’ve had so far. A huge thanks to my friend J for introducing it to me (I first tried their Salt bread when I was in the hospital, and I instantly fell in love with it). Sogum Bang is a soft, fluffy buttery bread that’s lightly salted on the outside, creating a perfect balance between sweet and savory flavors. It’s slightly crispy on the outside, with a soft, airy texture inside. This said, while I do get their Salt Bread often, I don’t visit the café that frequently, but the Sogum Bang is definitely worth mentioning! https://www.instagram.com/cafe__anon__/


There are also places I visit occasionally, but they just don’t make it to my top list. For example, Sulton Coffee (술탄커피), (another OG I’ve known since 2017, but it’s not really my style. However, they do serve alcoholic beverages, and their peach highball is definitely worth trying. https://www.instagram.com/sulta_ncoffee/ RIP Brewing Mansion (브루잉맨숀), which I actually liked very much but that’s closed now. Really unfortunate as I loved their delicious scones. https://www.instagram.com/brewing_mansion/

P.s. Before it melts (녹기 전에) – while it’s not exactly a traditional café (though they do have a few seats inside and plenty of books to browse), this place is absolutely worth mentioning as one of my all-time favorite gelato spots near university. They offer an amazing variety of unique and ever-changing flavors, so there’s always a delightful surprise with each visit. If you’re in the area, it’s definitely a must-visit for anyone who loves creative, crazy, colorful and high-quality gelato! https://www.instagram.com/before.it.melts/

There are definitely a few more spots I still want to check out, but I haven’t gotten around to them yet. I guess it’s just my habit of picking a few favorites and sticking to them, haha!

And for now…

…stay tuned

Au revoir

– M

Wanderlog -> first time in Hanoi, Vietnam

Hey beautiful friends & enemies~

Vietnam has always been a curious destination for me, and I finally got the chance to explore its vibrant capital, Hanoi in summer 2023. It was a 3 nights 4 days trip. From the bustling streets filled with motorbikes to the historic architecture that blends French colonial past with traditional Vietnamese elements, Hanoi is truly a city that captures the essence of the country. In this post, I’ll share my first impressions of Hanoi, dive into the rich cultural experiences I had, and talk about everything I’ve experienced. So, join me as I explore this incredible city and its unique charm.

I traveled to Vietnam with my friend Jyuni, and of course, I had to encounter some self-inflicted difficulties along the way. Since Jyuni is Korean, she didn’t need a visa to visit Vietnam. But as someone with a European passport, I was in a different situation. Naturally, I completely forgot that I needed a visa! It wasn’t until just three days before our trip, during a casual outing with friends, when someone casually asked, “Hey, have you got your visa sorted?” That was my wake-up call. Panic set in as I rushed to complete the online visa registration right away. Thankfully, I managed to get everything sorted just a couple of hours before our flight. I was shaking with nerves up until the last minute! So, folks, a little tip: don’t forget your visa! Trust me, it’s much better to get it sorted early than to face last-minute stress.

Now before we start a quick introduction to the country. Vietnam is a socialist republic with a one-party system, led by the Communist Party of Vietnam. The country has been under communist rule since 1975, after the end of the Vietnam War, when North and South Vietnam were unified. Despite being a communist country, Vietnam has embraced a more market-oriented economy since the Đổi Mới (Renovation) reforms in the late 1980s. These reforms opened door to greater foreign investment and trade, leading to rapid economic growth and development, especially in cities like Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City. However, political freedoms are limited, and the Communist Party maintains tight control over the country’s governance. Hanoi, the capital, is a fascinating blend of old-world charm and modern energy. As one of the oldest capitals in the world, it boasts centuries-old architecture, like the French-style buildings and historic temples, alongside the hustle and bustle of daily life. The city’s Old Quarter is a maze of narrow streets filled with street food vendors and local shops, offering a deep dive into Vietnamese culture. Hanoi is also famous for its lakes, like Hoan Kiem Lake, which serves as a peaceful retreat in the heart of the city.

With all the excitement of our journey, we boarded the plane and arrived in Hanoi just a few hours later. It was already quite late by the time we landed, so we hopped in a cab and headed straight to our hotel. But of course, no adventure truly begins without a midnight snack, right? Craving something local, we ventured out into the quiet, lantern-lit streets—and we struck gold. We found a cozy little spot serving pho, the iconic Vietnamese noodle soup. Made with a deeply flavorful broth, silky rice noodles, fresh herbs, and your choice of tender beef (pho bo) or chicken (pho ga), it was everything we needed and more. Light yet satisfying, it hit the spot perfectly after a long day of travel.Of course, we didn’t stop there. We also indulged in some classic Vietnamese bites like crispy spring rolls and juicy slices of fresh mango—because when in Hanoi, why not start your culinary journey right away?

Our hotel was great, and the buffet breakfast was fantastic. Despite having a severe allergy to fruits, I couldn’t resist stuffing myself with apple mangos (even though I knew better). But.. They were just too delicious!

Unfortunately, the weather didn’t play in our favor. It was extremely humid and hot, yet it was also quite cloudy and rainy at times. Our plan to relax at the hotel pool quickly fell apart as the weather just wasn’t cooperating. But hey, it’s all part of the adventure, right?

On our first day in Vietnam, we went on a motorcycle tour, and it was an absolute blast! It was actually my first time ever riding a motorcycle, which added to the thrill. Before we hit the road, we decided to do something super touristy and bought traditional Vietnamese costumes (ao dai), which was a lot of fun and definitely a cool experience.

Our guides were around our age, young, fluent in English, and, of course, locals. They took us to the must-see tourist attractions, like Hoan Kiem Lake (Hồ Hoàn Kiếm) and the famous train street (Ng. 224 Lê Duẩn, Đống Đa, Hà Nội, Vietnam), but they also showed us some hidden gems that most tourists don’t know about, which made the experience feel so much more authentic. Along the way, they told us something interesting: in Vietnam, it’s common for women to do most of the hard work, while men often take it easy and relax. Hmm, that was definitely an eye-opener! What more, they introduced couple of local places with amazing food.

Another thing we made sure to do every day (sometimes twice a day!) was get a massage. Whether it was a hot stone, facial, or a back and foot massage, we couldn’t get enough. And the best part? It was incredibly affordable—about 20-30 bucks for a two-hour session. Talk about a deal!

We also ate a lot of local food, but there was one place we couldn’t resist trying: a popular pizzeria that was packed with locals. There was no chance of getting a seat without a reservation. It was a bit of a break from Vietnamese food, but we were definitely glad we gave it a try! And ofc ourse some ice cream with mango as desert! Now, on to the culture shock… As an introvert, I found it a bit nerve-wracking that street vendors and salespeople often tried to grab your hand or touch you while enthusiastically shouting their sales pitch. It definitely took me by surprise, but I guess it’s just part of the hustle and bustle of Vietnamese street life!

The next morning, Jyuni and I set off on our much-anticipated Ha Long Bay tour. We had pre-booked a boat tour, so everything was smooth and easy from the start. As we left Hanoi behind, the scenery quickly turned lush and green—Vietnam’s countryside in all its peaceful beauty. On the way to the bay, we made a quick but fascinating stop at a pearl farm, where we got to see how pearls are cultivated and harvested. It was such a unique experience, and definitely not something we expected!

Once we reached Ha Long Bay, we boarded our boat and began cruising through the emerald waters, surrounded by towering limestone karsts. Along the way, we took a break and hopped into kayaks, paddling through serene waters and exploring hidden lagoons. It was an incredible way to get up close to the bay’s natural beauty.

Our final stop was a stunning island with caves (I forgot its name.. lol), where we explored dramatic formations that looked like something out of a fantasy movie. The caves were home to bats, adding an extra layer of excitement to our adventure. It was the perfect mix of nature, adventure, and peaceful vibes. Ha Long Bay truly lived up to the hype!

The next day was our last in Hanoi, but since our flight wasn’t until the evening, we had time to squeeze in a bit more exploration. We started our day with a relaxing coffee at a local café, then set out to enjoy a few more of the city’s attractions before saying our goodbyes.

We eventually signed up for a cooking class—a perfect final taste of Vietnamese culture. The experience began with a visit to a bustling local market, where we shopped for fresh ingredients alongside our guide. It was a fun and colorful way to see how locals source their produce, herbs, and spices. Back at the kitchen, we rolled up our sleeves and learned how to make a few Vietnamese classics, including the beloved pho and the unique, creamy egg coffee. It was hands-on, delicious, and such a memorable way to wrap up our time in Vietnam before heading to the airport.

And eventually it was now the end of the journey and we had to head back to reality – Seoul.

And for now…

…stay tuned

Au revoir

– M