Cafรฉ Chronicles -> Seoul Yeonsinnae ์—ฐ์‹ ๋‚ด

Hey beautiful friends and enemies~

Here I am again with another part of my Cafรฉ Chronicles series, where I take you along to my favorite coffee spots. As Iโ€™ve mentioned before, one of my greatest joys is soaking in beautiful spaces while sipping on a perfectly brewed cup.

Beyond the hours I spent tucked away in libraries and cozy corners, I also had the chance to work remotely quite a bit during my field research trip โ€” huge shoutout to the Korea Foundation (ํ•œ๊ตญ๊ตญ์ œ๊ต๋ฅ˜์žฌ๋‹จ) for making that possible! Back then, I loved grabbing my laptop, heading out for coffee, and switching up my surroundings. And since I was living in Yeonsinnae (์—ฐ์‹ ๋‚ด) โ€” remember my house hunting in Seoul (์„œ์šธ) post? Haha โ€” I made it my personal mission to explore the local cafรฉ scene and see what hidden gems I could find. That said, I want to share a couple of my favorite places with you. Iโ€™ll just list five (even though there are a few more!) so this post doesnโ€™t get too long.

YM COFFEE HOUSE (YM์ปคํ”ผํ•˜์šฐ์Šค) ๐Ÿ“ 21-8 Yeonseo-ro 29-gil, Eunpyeong-gu, Seoul, South Korea ์„œ์šธํŠน๋ณ„์‹œ ์€ํ‰๊ตฌ ์—ฐ์„œ๋กœ29๊ธธ 21-8

Tucked away in the heart of Yeonsinnae (์—ฐ์‹ ๋‚ด), YM COFFEE HOUSE (YM ์ปคํ”ผํ•˜์šฐ์Šค) is a cozy gem set in a former traditional Korean home. With warm wooden interiors, vintage touches, and soft lighting, itโ€™s the perfect spot to relax for hours. The open coffee bar lets you watch skilled baristas craft hand-drip coffees (ํ•ธ๋“œ๋“œ๋ฆฝ ์ปคํ”ผ), turning each cup into a true craft. Their dedication to quality shines through every sip, and their dessertsโ€”especially the crรจme brรปlรฉe and tiramisuโ€”are absolutely delicious. Plus, itโ€™s super work-friendly. I often came here to work on my thesis or write blog posts, thanks to the inviting yet focused atmosphere. If youโ€™re in ์—ฐ์‹ ๋‚ด, make sure to stop by. Whether for coffee, a quiet read, or a cozy work session, YM COFFEE HOUSE wonโ€™t disappoint. Bonus: you can also buy their roasted beans to take home, ground or whole.

๐Ÿ•’ 11:30 AM โ€“ 11:00 PM (Closed on Tuesdays) ๐Ÿ“ทhttps://www.instagram.com/ymcoffeeproject?utm_source=chatgpt.com


FLUP Coffee (ํ”Œ๋Ÿฝ์ปคํ”ผ) ๐Ÿ“ 3rd Floor, 7-11 Yeonseo-ro 29-gil, Eunpyeong-gu, Seoul, South Korea ์„œ์šธ ์€ํ‰๊ตฌ ์—ฐ์„œ๋กœ29๊ธธ 7-11 3์ธต

Nestled on the 3rd floor in the Yeonsinnae (์—ฐ์‹ ๋‚ด) neighborhood, FLUP Coffee (ํ”Œ๋Ÿฝ์ปคํ”ผ) offers a peaceful escape from the cityโ€™s hustle with its sleek, modern vibe. The cafรฉโ€™s design is simple yet sophisticated, featuring clean lines and a soft, muted color palette that creates the perfect environment for focused work or a relaxing coffee break. Their minimalist philosophy carries through from the stylish interior to the carefully curated menu, where every cup of coffee is crafted with precision and care. While their selection of desserts is delightful and the coffee consistently good, itโ€™s the serene atmosphere and refined aesthetic that keep me coming back time and again. Whether youโ€™re settling in with your laptop or diving into a good book, FLUP Coffee is a quiet haven in the heart of the city.

๐Ÿ•’ 12:00 PM โ€“ 10:00 PM (Daily) ๐Ÿ“ท https://www.instagram.com/flupcoffee/


HOB AND NOB COFFEE (ํ™‰์•ค๋†‰ ์ปคํ”ผ) ๐Ÿ“2nd Floor, 811 Tongil-ro, Eunpyeong-gu, Seoul, South Korea ์„œ์šธํŠน๋ณ„์‹œ ์€ํ‰๊ตฌ ํ†ต์ผ๋กœ 811, 2์ธต

Located in Eunpyeong-gu (์€ํ‰๊ตฌ), Seoul, HOB AND NOB COFFEE (ํ™‰์•ค๋†‰ ์ปคํ”ผ) is approximately a 5-minute walk from Yeonsinnae Station (์—ฐ์‹ ๋‚ด์—ญ). A cozy cafรฉ known for its warm ambiance is definitely worth checking out! The cafรฉ’s interior features clean lines, natural wood accents, and ample natural light (love the biiig window), creating a serene environment perfect for both relaxation and productivity. Their menu offers a selection of expertly brewed coffees and delightful desserts, making it a favorite spot for locals and visitors alike. Their French toast is really soooo good!

๐Ÿ•’12:00 PM โ€“ 8:00 PM (Closed on Wednesdays) ๐Ÿ“ทhttps://www.instagram.com/hob_n_nob/?utm_source=chatgpt.com


Dotdotdot2 (๋‹ท๋‹ท๋‹ท2) ๐Ÿ“ 1st Floor, 21 Yeonseo-ro 27-gil, Eunpyeong-gu, Seoul, South Korea ์„œ์šธ ์€ํ‰๊ตฌ ์—ฐ์„œ๋กœ27๊ธธ 21 1์ธต

Just a quick 7-minute walk from Yeonsinnae Station (์—ฐ์‹ ๋‚ด์—ญ), Dotdotdot2 (๋‹ท๋‹ท๋‹ท2) stands out as a trendy cafรฉ where modern design meets a lively, hip atmosphere. The space feels effortlessly cool โ€” think bold pops of color, quirky art, and a laid-back yet energetic vibe that makes it a favorite hangout for creatives and coffee lovers alike. Their menu isnโ€™t just about great coffee; itโ€™s a playground of flavors and aesthetics. From beautifully crafted lattes to eye-catching dessert plates, every order feels like a little celebration. Whether youโ€™re snapping photos for the โ€˜gram or just soaking up the cafรฉโ€™s unique energy, Dotdotdot2 brings a fresh twist to the Seoul coffee scene. They also give you small chocolates to every cup you order! P.s. they are perfect for a night cup or some last minute studying as they have open until dawn!

๐Ÿ•’ 11:00 AM โ€“ 4:00 AM ๐Ÿ“ท https://www.instagram.com/dotdotdot.seoul.2/?utm_source=chatgpt.com


Sojon: (์†Œ์กด:) ๐Ÿ“1st Floor, 5-13 Tongillo 73-gil, Eunpyeong-gu, Seoul, South Korea ์„œ์šธํŠน๋ณ„์‹œ ์€ํ‰๊ตฌ ํ†ต์ผ๋กœ73๊ธธ 5-13, 1์ธต

Nestled in the quiet streets of Yeonsinnae (์—ฐ์‹ ๋‚ด), S0jon (์†Œ์กด:) is a calm and minimalist cafรฉ perfect for those moments when you want to slow down. The space is bright and airy, filled with natural light and simple, clean design that instantly puts you at ease. I love coming here when I need a peaceful spot to sip quality coffee and focusโ€”whether itโ€™s reading, writing, or just taking a break from the city buzz. Their vibe is understated but inviting, as it is a small place with only couple of tables but super cozy making it a great escape without the usual cafรฉ noise.

๐Ÿ•’ 10:00 AM โ€“ 8:00 PM; Holidays: 10:00 AM โ€“ 6:00 PM; Closed every Sunday and Monday in May (last order one hour before closing) ๐Ÿ“ท https://www.instagram.com/s0__jon/


P.S. Mondal (๋ฌธ๋‹ฌ) ๐Ÿ“22 Tongillo 78-gil, Eunpyeong-gu, Seoul, South Korea ์„œ์šธ ์€ํ‰๊ตฌ ํ†ต์ผ๋กœ78๊ธธ 22

It isnโ€™t exactly a cafรฉ, but it definitely deserves a huge shoutout for its incredible cakes and pastries. Their cheesecake, in particular, is simply outstanding same goes for the strawberry cake! The only downside? Itโ€™s strictly takeoutโ€”thereโ€™s no seating area to linger and enjoy your treats. Still, itโ€™s totally worth a visit if youโ€™re craving something sweet on the go!

๐Ÿ•’ 12:00 PM to 9:00 PM (Closed on Sundays and Mondays) ๐Ÿ“ท https://www.instagram.com/moondal_/


These are just five of my favorite cafรฉs in Yeonsinnae (์—ฐ์‹ ๋‚ด), each with its own unique charm and vibe. Whether youโ€™re looking for a cozy nook to work, a stylish spot to catch up with friends, or simply a quiet place to enjoy great coffee and desserts, these cafรฉs have got you covered. I hope you get a chance to visit them and find your own special corner in this vibrant neighborhood. Happy cafรฉ hopping!

And for nowโ€ฆ

โ€ฆstay tuned

Au revoir

โ€“ M

Seoul Odyssey Diaries -> Finding a place to live in Seoul

As I mentioned in my last post, I have moved to Korea lately… And finding a place to live was not an easy journey.

To give a bit of background on how the Korean housing industry works, there are essentially two main aspects to consider: the type of housing and the payment method. This allows individuals to choose from various options based on how they prefer to pay for their living arrangements.

In South Korea, housing options for the average person generally fall into three categories based on the size of the living space:

  • One-room (์›๋ฃธ): These compact studio apartments typically consist of a single large room that serves multiple purposes, often including a kitchenette and bathroom within the same space.
  • Officetel (์˜คํ”ผ์Šคํ…”): Known for their blend of “office” and “hotel,” officetels are studio apartments that may include small kitchen facilities and often have (but not necessarily) separate areas for sleeping and living, making them slightly larger than traditional one-room apartments.
  • Apartments (์•„ํŒŒํŠธ): Larger than one-room and officetel units, apartments in Korea usually feature multiple rooms, including separate bedrooms, a living room, kitchen, and sometimes additional amenities such as balconies or extra storage space.

Also, in Korea you use pyeong (ํ‰) which is equal to approximately 3.3058 square meters or about 35.58 square feet. It’s commonly used in South Korea to describe the size of rooms or apartments. For example, when looking at apartment listings or discussing the size of a room in Korea, you might hear measurements like “30 pyeong,” which would mean 30 times the size of one pyeong, or around 99.18 square meters

Among these options, apartments are typically the most expensive and sought-after due to their amenities and convenience. Studio apartments come next in terms of expense, while living spaces in villasโ€”usually older in style and constructionโ€”are generally the most affordable option. (Other types of housing, such as share houses, goshiwons, and guest families, exist but will not be discussed here.)

Apartments, especially those in complexes, are favored for their added conveniences like private security, communal cleaning services, and nearby amenities such as convenience stores, study rooms, libraries, gyms, and sometimes childcare facilities. However, older apartment complexes may not offer as many modern amenities.

Studio apartments or officetels are typically smaller spaces often with high ceilings and loft-like features. Although they may not be in high-rise buildings like apartments, they tend to be modern and cleaner compared to equivalent spaces in older villa-style buildings.

Lastly, villa living spaces are often favored by students or individuals new to living alone due to their affordability. While some villas may be well-maintained or newly remodeled, many are older and less modern in design and interior, making them less luxurious compared to apartments.

It’s worth noting that while most people may not stay in villas for extended periods, there are individuals and families who prefer these quieter, less urban areas often found in regions with a more relaxed, small-town atmosphere.

I personally have only lived in a villa myself (in a one-room last year and two-room now) but have visited friends who live both in officetels and apartments.

Usually you can either rent or buy a home but in Korea there are more options for that. Buying is way too expensive so I will not talk about this option.. First thing to keep in mind, the deposits for housing in Korea are huge.. And when I say huge I mean HUGE. And the more deposit you pay desto cheaper your rent gets. Then there is this: pay a big amount at once and โ€˜pay no rent at allโ€™ system as well.

For example let’s take a one-room (around 14 square meters) style place in a villa which includes a “kitchen” and also gets a small bathroom-toilet place as well. Of course the area in which you will choose to live has a big influence over the price as well. Let’s imagine this place is somewhere near a train station not too far from the main areas, still not in the expensive zone such as Gangnam or Haewha. You can pay 5k in deposit and pay 600 rent for a small one room place nevertheless if you pay 20k your rent will be 300 per month and if you pay 50k you will only pay 150 rent per month. If you use the second option you pay around 100k and pay no rent at all. The deposit will be given back to you after you move out. Of course stuff like internet, gas, water etc. are paid extra.

I will add pictures of the place I stayed at last year so that you have some imagination of what I am talking about. I used to live in Geondae, a 6 minute foot walk from line 2 and 7. This place was a 5k deposit and 600 rent plus utensils and the so-called maintenance coast. which added up to roughly 650-700 a month. In winter tho with heating costs it was more. My room was pretty small and had one single bed and a small dining area with a small kitchen-place.

You can also see the transformation this place made through the time haha..

This said I will give a small insight into how the process of house-hunting went for me this year. I knew from the beginning that I could only afford rent-style living. The first crucial step was selecting the right area to live in. Economic factors played a significant role since rent prices vary widely depending on the neighborhood. This meant I had to look beyond the bustling city center and explore more affordable options further out. For me, proximity to a reliable metro line was non-negotiable. I preferred living within walking distance of the metro because I’m not a fan of busesโ€”they tend to make me feel queasy. Especially with the rollercoaster-like rides in Korea.

Considering the need to go to Sogang University (accessible via lines 2 and 6) quickly and occasional volunteering at the Lithuanian Embassy (requiring lines 3, 5, and 1), finding a location with minimal transfers to both places was crucial. While my favorite parts of Seoulโ€”Seongsu, Anguk, Mulle, Hanamโ€”are ideal, they are beyond my budget. I aimed for a place larger than a one-room apartment, preferably with three rooms: one for work, one for sleeping, and one for hosting friendsโ€”a kitchen space was also essential.

In the end, three neighborhoods caught my attention: Bulgwan and Yeonshine (accessible via lines 6 and 3) in the northwest of Seoul, near its outskirts; Miya or Suyu (line 4); and Gunza (line 7), closer to the center but farther from both the University and Embassy. Despite their distance, Bulgwan and Yeonshine stood out as the most affordable options for apartments larger than 15 square meters, based on listings from mobile housing apps like Zigbang ์ง๋ฐฉ. More than Bulgwan the area of Yeonshine seemed living-friendly so it was set. Yeonshine it should be. It took about two months of intensive research to identify a couple of suitable options through the app and then arrange viewings with a Budongsan ๋ถ€๋™์‚ฐ (housing broker company).ย 

The photos on the app often differed significantly from the real apartments, adding to the stress of the process. After meeting with numerous brokers and visiting multiple apartments, I eventually settled on a decent-looking option that met my basic criteria, though the search was draining both physically and emotionally. The apartment I am living in right now actually is a bit uphill and it is quite tiresome to get home and I keep on contemplating every time I am going outside. But why did I choose this in the first place? Because the apartment that I visited before this one was literally on a mountain it was pretty cheap considering it having three rooms and a extra kitchen space and terrace, nevertheless climbing up to this place was literally hell (it was not even hot at that time) so visiting the place I live in right now seemed more than fine at that time haha

So… In the end, I signed a two-year lease since shorter options were scarce, especially in less central areas with fewer foreigners and exchange students. And so, I found myself settling into what I now consider home, at least for the foreseeable future.

I’ll delve into more details about the layout, decor, and overall feel of my new place in the next post, as this one has already become quite lengthy.

And for nowโ€ฆ

โ€ฆstay tuned

Au revoir

โ€“ M

Seoul Odyssey Diaries -> I am Back

From the beginning of June I’m back in S. Korea, Seoul. It’s been a while since I last wrote something (I know, I always start my posts by apologizing for my absence…).

A lot has happened since my last update. More than a year has passed, and I actually spent June to December of 2023 in Korea, working at the Lithuanian Embassy and conducting my PhD research. After returning to Lithuania, I started teaching courses on Korea at Vytautas Magnus University (VMU) in Kaunas again. I also got engaged (yey).

I had promised myself that I would document my last journey in Korea, creating a diary-like record to look back on. Unfortunately, I failed to do so, and I’m quite upset about it. To prevent this from happening again, I’ve decided to set a goal of updating my blog once a week. I’ll write down the most important events, even if it’s just a couple of sentences, with some pictures to capture the moments.

Soooo… this said. I am back in Korea! This time, I was fortunate to win a Korea Foundation grant for PhD field study and research in South Korea, affiliated with Sogang University. I still have quite a bit of work left to do with my thesis, including collecting more interviews with middle and high school history teachers and delving deeper into the narration of Korean history. If everything goes according to plan, I will be able to defend my thesis next fall. Until then, I have to stay focused and keep working.

Since I came here for my research, having a dedicated workspace was a top priority for me. I tend to work best at night (not the healthiest schedule, I know), so having a home office usually works better for me than an actual office or library. I wanted to create a space at home that inspires me to work, and I think I did a pretty good job setting up a decent workspace. But I think I will do a separate interior post.

I mustn’t forget to mention my beloved lizard, my baby boy Kuki (aka Cookie), who is actually a blue-tongued skink. He’s finally returned home, and I owe a tremendous thank you to the gracious family of Lithuania’s Ambassador. They took care of him while I was in Lithuania, showing immense kindness and generosity.

There are a lot of things I still want to share with you, but for now, just a short greeting from Seoul.

And for nowโ€ฆ

โ€ฆstay tuned

Au revoir

โ€“ M