Wanderlog -> Alone in Kyoto for two nights

March 23, 2026March 23, 2026Leave a comment

Hey beautiful friends and enemies~

It has been quite a while now, but I wanted to share some happy moments from January. I was really busy with my spouse visa for Korea, and honestly… I was so done with it at some point. Like, I seriously just wanted to give up. But at the same time, something good actually came out of that whole situation. Because of the visa stuff, I ended up going to Japan — and I have to admit that I was happy about that part of the struggle ahaha. [BTW, the spouse visa process was… an experience. We basically had to prove that we “love” each other through screenshots 😀 which was honestly both ridiculous and kind of funny at the same time. Like, digging through chats trying to find the most convincing evidence of emotions?? very normal. We also had to prove that we didn’t just get married for the visa (which, fair enough, but still slightly humbling haha). And the irony of it all… after all that stress, documents, and emotional damage from the submissions — I finally got the visa, happy ending, right? Well. The very next day. Literally the next day. Minjun got a job offer in Lithuania. So yeah… 😀 you can imagine. New life chapter in Lithuania it is, I guess?]

I went to Kyoto since the tickets were pretty affordable (winter perks, I guess), even though it was quite cold. But I didn’t even mind it that much. There’s just something about Kyoto. And also… You know I kind of fell pretty hard for Kyoto again. I had been there before with my mum, and I think that trip stayed with me more than I realized. Going back felt familiar but also different at the same time. Like revisiting a place you already love, but seeing it in a new mood — quieter, colder, slower. So yeah… even though I was stressed and tired because of the visa process, Kyoto made it all a bit better.

It was actually kind of a big but fun challenge for me. I don’t really enjoy being in crowded places alone, like eating out alone, that’s really not my thing. Galleries and cafés are fine though, those are actually my favorite places to spend time alone. Guess I’m a pretty introverted person, not in a “I hate people” way, or I kind of do but.. no, I actually really like people… just the ones I already know, all others not so much. And it takes me so long to get close to someone that most of the time I just don’t even bother, it’s simply way more chill like this way. So yeah… very shy personality (even though no one ever believes it?? why tho lol). But this short two-night, three-day trip pushed me a bit out of my comfort zone, and I ended up doing things I normally wouldn’t do, like going out for dinner alone at a more popular place, even talking to random people (okay I didn’t initiate the convo, but I responded and we’re choosing to call that progress and be proud of it haha), or grabbing a drink by myself at a bar, which is funny because I actually really enjoy Japanese gin (like omg… gin is the best, yes). So yeah… small things, but for me it actually felt like a pretty big step.

I stepped out of the plane and immediately made sure not to leave my phone anywhere (learned that the hard way last time), then took the HARUKA (はるか) towards Kyoto (京都駅), grabbing some snacks for the ride on the way. I had been busy all morning doing last-minute changes to my dissertation before sending it to the reviewers, so I didn’t really have time to eat anything, which is probably why that combo of beer and a riceball felt like the most delicious meal on the planet haha, and omg my favorite chocolate… obviously had to get some immediately, zero self-control. After arriving at Kyoto station it was only about a 25-minute walk to my hotel, so honestly why even bother with the metro when you can just walk, especially considering I somehow always manage to mess up directions or trains 😀 better not risk it.

I chose a kind of hotel/hostel right in the heart of Kyoto (thanks to my Booking.com points and discounts haha), which was modeled like a traditional home — tatami (畳), bed-futons (布団), a mini-mini bathtub that was honestly more cute than practical, and even tea and snacks as a welcome, which immediately made it feel very much my style. I stayed at Saju Kyoto (茶住京都), and it honestly turned out to be such a good choice — the whole concept is basically “living in a tea room,” which sounds a bit poetic but actually fits perfectly, very calm, minimal, slightly modern but still with that quiet Kyoto vibe. The location was also kind of ideal, right in Shimogyo (下京区), just a few minutes from Shijo Street and about a 5-minute walk to Nishiki Market (錦市場), with Kawaramachi and even Gion (祇園) within walking distance, but still tucked away on a quieter street so you don’t feel like you’re constantly in the middle of chaos.

And the person in charge of the hotel was honestly such a big help. I asked for some recommendations and he suggested a local restaurant, and then even walked with me there (it was literally right next to the hotel) to help make a reservation, which I was actually really thankful for, because he clearly noticed I was giving off slightly confused and intimidated energy and decided to step in. It still felt a little awkward though, especially when they kind of hinted that I don’t really seem like the type who enjoys eating alone… which, well… extremely accurate. I had to admit that even when I travel alone, I usually go to places where I have friends, so this was one of the first times it was actually just me. In the end there was no free spot, but they told me if I waited about 55 minutes they could squeeze me in at the bar, so I took that as my cue for a dramatic little solo stroll. I ended up by the Kamo River (鴨川), and even though it was already dark, there were still so many people around, some wearing kimono (着物), all looking effortlessly cute.I caught myself thinking… I kind of want to try that too. I mean, technically I could, right? Even on my own… Maybe tomorrow… we’ll see.

Eventually dinner. It was pretty good I had to admit.

After my little solo dinner adventure, I decided to go for a 2cha (2차) — which in Korea basically means “second round,” like moving on to another place after your first stop, usually for drinks. It’s kind of a whole culture there, going from 1차 to 2차 (and sometimes even more…), and somehow that energy followed me all the way to Kyoto. I had already spotted a few places earlier during my pre-dinner walk, so I knew exactly where to go next. I ended up standing between two very different options: one was this super fancy place with an open terrace, full of very well-dressed people who all looked like they had their lives perfectly together, very high-end, very intimidating… and the other one was a small, more private-looking bar, run by an older gentleman in a black suit, much quieter, much less crowded, almost like a hidden spot. Guess which one I chose? 😄 And eventually I even went to 3차 a bat which sitted in my google map hearts for the longest time – Kingdom.

Next day I woke up and first things first — coffee, obviously.

Which somehow turned into a little stroll that slowly led me to Gion (祇園), and well… once you’re there, you really can’t ignore it, kimono rental places everywhere. So yeah… guess what I did. I gave in, rented one, and suddenly found myself walking around alone in a kimono like a full-on tourist, visiting all the cute little streets and spots. I did feel slightly ridiculous at first, not going to lie, but also kind of loved it at the same time. The only problem it was freezing, and I was, well… just in a kimono. No real winter protection, just vibes. Still worth it haha. What truly made my day, though, was something completely unexpected… I was stopped by a street photographer who, using Google Translate, asked if he could take a few photos of me (apparently my kimono caught his eye which was not gonna lie much flattering). I was a bit shy, but I said yes, and I’m so glad I did as he send me the photos afterwards.

Eventually my little adventure came to an end and it was time to head back to Seoul. Of course I woke up a bit earlier, just so I could walk to Kyoto Station (京都駅) one more time and take the airport line again, trying to stretch those last moments just a little longer. At the airport I treated myself to some last-minute snacks and a coffee (as if I hadn’t already had enough), and just like that, my first real solo trip came to an end — honestly, in the best way possible. If anything, it only made me fall even more for Kyoto and quietly start planning when I could come back again.

P.s. Being in Japan and seeing kanji (漢字) and hiragana (ひらがな) everywhere always reminds me that I once boldly decided to learn Japanese in my second year at university… (where I by the way met my lovely Cemile ❤ and Nana) only to be personally defeated by kanji. And by defeated I mean: instead of going to the exam, I went to a café and ordered an iced americano like it was a life decision. Truly a moment of character development. I still get teased by my mom about it (rightfully so, honestly), but I haven’t completely given up… one day I’ll return, face the kanji again, and hopefully not choose coffee over my education this time…………

And for now…

…stay tuned

Au revoir

– M

Wanderlog -> Cambridge University: conference + exploring Isaac Newton’s apple tree & Stephen Hawking’s traces and London

August 19, 2025August 19, 2025Leave a comment

Hey beautiful friends & enemies~

This post is—once again—a little late… but hey, as I always say: better late than never, right? 😄

Back in April, I had the chance to go on a truly special work trip. Along with colleagues from our ASC (Centre for Asian Studies) and many others from our Vytautas Magnus University, we traveled to England to take part in the 16th Conference on Baltic Studies in Europe (CBSE), titled “Converging Paths: The Baltic Between East and West.” The conference took place from April 24–26, 2025, at the University of Cambridge (yes, that Cambridge—still feels surreal!). I was honored to present my work on “Historic Trauma in Collective Memory: Soviet Sentiment in Lithuanian History Education”—which is actually should have been a chapter in my PhD thesis. Sharing this research in such a prestigious setting, and hearing from so many brilliant minds, was an unforgettable experience.

During this trip, I definitely became a bit of a burden to my PhD supervisor. We flew together from Kaunas airport, and since our hostels happened to be on the same street, I ended up tagging along with him most of the time. Eventually, we arrived… And I fell so hard in love with oat milk iced chai ❤

As my presentation was scheduled for the very last day of the conference—which turned out to be a blessing in disguise. It gave me plenty of time to explore other panels and talks, and also to wander through the charming streets of this old university town. And honestly? I low-key fell in love with Cambridge. From the historic architecture to the peaceful college courtyards, the whole place has an atmosphere that feels almost magical. But what really stole my heart were the cozy little bookstores and the irresistible ice cream shops (I may or may not have become a regular at both).

Random TMI > Funny enough, back in middle school, I dreamed of studying astronomy in Switzerland—don’t ask me why Switzerland, I have no idea! Maybe it just sounded beautifully distant and full of stars. But reality hit when my physics grades turned out to be… well, tragic. Chemistry made a bit more sense to me, so when I had to choose a science subject in high school, I went with that instead. And just like that, my dream of becoming an astronomer drifted off into the cosmos. Still, my fascination with the universe never really faded. My heart still beats faster when I look up at the night sky or pick up a book by Stephen Hawking. In fact, even though I barely understood half of what he wrote at the time, I read all his books in middle school. So being in Cambridge—where Hawking once lived, worked, and reshaped our understanding of the cosmos—felt incredibly special. Like walking in the footsteps of a childhood hero. So we explored couple of the science traces as well! While exploring we even got lost and stuck in some secret garden with lots of viol practice sounds….

My love for beer might get out of hand one day haha just kidding. But I had more than a great time with my fellow colleagues just chilling exploring and eating tons of delli food.

What more (my supervisor’s favorite phrase, lol), we added an extra day to explore London, and after my presentation, the whole group set off on an adventure—starting with the train from Cambridge to King’s Cross After arriving, we first checked out the Harry Potter attractions and then split up for a while before meeting again in the evening.

I used that time to finally cross something off my bucket list: having a cocktail alone at a bar. Okay, technically it was a bit of a cheat, since my best friend’s amazing boyfriend works at the bar—but still, I went in by myself. At first, it felt so awkward just sitting there alone with my thoughts. I definitely felt a little out of place. But Maison Assouline (the bar’s name) turned out to be so welcoming that I quickly relaxed. No one judged me, the atmosphere was stunning, and by the end, I actually enjoyed the experience so much. It really felt like a little success for me. After one or two drinks, I left my things at the bar and went for a walk. That’s when I stumbled upon something special: a Polène boutique. My grandpa had given me money instead of a birthday gift this year, telling me to pick something I’d truly love and remember him by. And there it was—this shop appearing almost by chance in front of me. I knew right away that this would be the perfect gift from him. So in one day, I not only had a presentation at Cambridge univ, checked off a bucket list item but also found a treasure I’ll cherish forever. In the eventing we met up with our ASC for another quick chat and beer and called it a day.

The next day was for more exploration of London. Btw, it was marathon time and I saw how someone fainted and was carried away.. I hope this person is ok…

And that wrapped up my little conference getaway in England with my lovely ASC friends—it couldn’t have been better!

P.s. During this trip I once again realizes that I am an introvert. It’s kind of funny — people often assume I’m super outgoing and love constant interaction (which, to be fair, I do enjoy)… but the truth is, my social battery is surprisingly small. I’m an INFP for a reason. Once that battery runs low, I shift from chatty and engaged to full-on introvert mode. I’ll just sit quietly, still enjoying the atmosphere around me, but not really saying much. And that’s usually when people who don’t know me well yet start to worry — asking if I’m okay, if something’s wrong, or if I’m upset. But nope, nothing dramatic is going on. I’ve just used up all my “outgoing, talkative self” for the day and settled back into being the calm, quiet observer I naturally am with the wish of just hiding under a blanket reading or inch watching some show. And actually I have lived together with quite of my friends together and they will know the best how I will eventually not come out of my room for days (with the exeption of toilet breaks) but that is the true beauty of being close with someone more than polite chit chat being able to enjoy silence which is far from awkward is something that is especially important for me in friendship I guess.

In the end I feel so thankful to be working in such lovely environment sending much love for my colleguess ❤

And for now…

…stay tuned

Au revoir

– M

Café Chronicles -> Seoul Yeonsinnae 연신내

May 25, 2025May 25, 2025Leave a comment

Hey beautiful friends and enemies~

Here I am again with another part of my Café Chronicles series, where I take you along to my favorite coffee spots. As I’ve mentioned before, one of my greatest joys is soaking in beautiful spaces while sipping on a perfectly brewed cup.

Beyond the hours I spent tucked away in libraries and cozy corners, I also had the chance to work remotely quite a bit during my field research trip — huge shoutout to the Korea Foundation (한국국제교류재단) for making that possible! Back then, I loved grabbing my laptop, heading out for coffee, and switching up my surroundings. And since I was living in Yeonsinnae (연신내) — remember my house hunting in Seoul (서울) post? Haha — I made it my personal mission to explore the local café scene and see what hidden gems I could find. That said, I want to share a couple of my favorite places with you. I’ll just list five (even though there are a few more!) so this post doesn’t get too long.

YM COFFEE HOUSE (YM커피하우스) 📍 21-8 Yeonseo-ro 29-gil, Eunpyeong-gu, Seoul, South Korea 서울특별시 은평구 연서로29길 21-8

Tucked away in the heart of Yeonsinnae (연신내), YM COFFEE HOUSE (YM 커피하우스) is a cozy gem set in a former traditional Korean home. With warm wooden interiors, vintage touches, and soft lighting, it’s the perfect spot to relax for hours. The open coffee bar lets you watch skilled baristas craft hand-drip coffees (핸드드립 커피), turning each cup into a true craft. Their dedication to quality shines through every sip, and their desserts—especially the crème brûlée and tiramisu—are absolutely delicious. Plus, it’s super work-friendly. I often came here to work on my thesis or write blog posts, thanks to the inviting yet focused atmosphere. If you’re in 연신내, make sure to stop by. Whether for coffee, a quiet read, or a cozy work session, YM COFFEE HOUSE won’t disappoint. Bonus: you can also buy their roasted beans to take home, ground or whole.

🕒 11:30 AM – 11:00 PM (Closed on Tuesdays) 📷https://www.instagram.com/ymcoffeeproject?utm_source=chatgpt.com

FLUP Coffee (플럽커피) 📍 3rd Floor, 7-11 Yeonseo-ro 29-gil, Eunpyeong-gu, Seoul, South Korea 서울 은평구 연서로29길 7-11 3층

Nestled on the 3rd floor in the Yeonsinnae (연신내) neighborhood, FLUP Coffee (플럽커피) offers a peaceful escape from the city’s hustle with its sleek, modern vibe. The café’s design is simple yet sophisticated, featuring clean lines and a soft, muted color palette that creates the perfect environment for focused work or a relaxing coffee break. Their minimalist philosophy carries through from the stylish interior to the carefully curated menu, where every cup of coffee is crafted with precision and care. While their selection of desserts is delightful and the coffee consistently good, it’s the serene atmosphere and refined aesthetic that keep me coming back time and again. Whether you’re settling in with your laptop or diving into a good book, FLUP Coffee is a quiet haven in the heart of the city.

🕒 12:00 PM – 10:00 PM (Daily) 📷 https://www.instagram.com/flupcoffee/

HOB AND NOB COFFEE (홉앤놉 커피) 📍2nd Floor, 811 Tongil-ro, Eunpyeong-gu, Seoul, South Korea 서울특별시 은평구 통일로 811, 2층

Located in Eunpyeong-gu (은평구), Seoul, HOB AND NOB COFFEE (홉앤놉 커피) is approximately a 5-minute walk from Yeonsinnae Station (연신내역). A cozy café known for its warm ambiance is definitely worth checking out! The café’s interior features clean lines, natural wood accents, and ample natural light (love the biiig window), creating a serene environment perfect for both relaxation and productivity. Their menu offers a selection of expertly brewed coffees and delightful desserts, making it a favorite spot for locals and visitors alike. Their French toast is really soooo good!

🕒12:00 PM – 8:00 PM (Closed on Wednesdays) 📷https://www.instagram.com/hob_n_nob/?utm_source=chatgpt.com

Dotdotdot2 (닷닷닷2) 📍 1st Floor, 21 Yeonseo-ro 27-gil, Eunpyeong-gu, Seoul, South Korea 서울 은평구 연서로27길 21 1층

Just a quick 7-minute walk from Yeonsinnae Station (연신내역), Dotdotdot2 (닷닷닷2) stands out as a trendy café where modern design meets a lively, hip atmosphere. The space feels effortlessly cool — think bold pops of color, quirky art, and a laid-back yet energetic vibe that makes it a favorite hangout for creatives and coffee lovers alike. Their menu isn’t just about great coffee; it’s a playground of flavors and aesthetics. From beautifully crafted lattes to eye-catching dessert plates, every order feels like a little celebration. Whether you’re snapping photos for the ‘gram or just soaking up the café’s unique energy, Dotdotdot2 brings a fresh twist to the Seoul coffee scene. They also give you small chocolates to every cup you order! P.s. they are perfect for a night cup or some last minute studying as they have open until dawn!

🕒 11:00 AM – 4:00 AM 📷 https://www.instagram.com/dotdotdot.seoul.2/?utm_source=chatgpt.com

Sojon: (소존:) 📍1st Floor, 5-13 Tongillo 73-gil, Eunpyeong-gu, Seoul, South Korea 서울특별시 은평구 통일로73길 5-13, 1층

Nestled in the quiet streets of Yeonsinnae (연신내), S0jon (소존:) is a calm and minimalist café perfect for those moments when you want to slow down. The space is bright and airy, filled with natural light and simple, clean design that instantly puts you at ease. I love coming here when I need a peaceful spot to sip quality coffee and focus—whether it’s reading, writing, or just taking a break from the city buzz. Their vibe is understated but inviting, as it is a small place with only couple of tables but super cozy making it a great escape without the usual café noise.

🕒 10:00 AM – 8:00 PM; Holidays: 10:00 AM – 6:00 PM; Closed every Sunday and Monday in May (last order one hour before closing) 📷 https://www.instagram.com/s0__jon/

P.S. Mondal (문달) 📍22 Tongillo 78-gil, Eunpyeong-gu, Seoul, South Korea 서울 은평구 통일로78길 22

It isn’t exactly a café, but it definitely deserves a huge shoutout for its incredible cakes and pastries. Their cheesecake, in particular, is simply outstanding same goes for the strawberry cake! The only downside? It’s strictly takeout—there’s no seating area to linger and enjoy your treats. Still, it’s totally worth a visit if you’re craving something sweet on the go!

🕒 12:00 PM to 9:00 PM (Closed on Sundays and Mondays) 📷 https://www.instagram.com/moondal_/

These are just five of my favorite cafés in Yeonsinnae (연신내), each with its own unique charm and vibe. Whether you’re looking for a cozy nook to work, a stylish spot to catch up with friends, or simply a quiet place to enjoy great coffee and desserts, these cafés have got you covered. I hope you get a chance to visit them and find your own special corner in this vibrant neighborhood. Happy café hopping!

And for now…

…stay tuned

Au revoir

– M

Wanderlog -> Ancient capital of Japan: Kyoto, Nara, Osaka

May 3, 2025May 3, 2025Leave a comment

Hey beautiful friends & enemies~

Recently, I had the chance to hop over to Japan for the weekend with my mum! I had work to do in Seoul, so I figured—why not take her along and turn it into a little side adventure? It was her very first time in Japan (cue dramatic gasp!), while it was my third time visiting the country—but my first time exploring the Kyoto and Osaka area. Even more exciting, it was also the first time the two of us traveled this far just the two of us. And let me tell you… it was a whole vibe. Still, we definitely missed my lil sister, though—she couldn’t join us because of exams and her sports games. Don’t worry sis, next time you’re coming too!

Japan just has this magical energy that always makes me feel special. It’s hands down one of my favorite places to travel. We spent a couple of nights in Osaka and one in Kyoto.

Osaka (大阪市), Japan’s third-largest city, is a lively hub of culture, cuisine, and commerce in the Kansai region (関西地方) on Honshu (本州). Home to about 2.7 million people—and over 19 million in the greater metro area—it’s one of the world’s largest urban centers. Known as the “nation’s kitchen” (天下の台所) during the Edo period for its role in food distribution, Osaka remains a culinary capital today, famous for takoyaki (たこ焼き) and okonomiyaki (お好み焼き). Locals are known for their humor, friendly nature, and Osaka-ben (大阪弁) dialect.

Of course, no trip of mine is complete without a little chaos. The first surprise happened right at the airport, where my dizzy head managed to leave my phone in the toilet… and then exit the terminal, where giant signs everywhere screamed “NO RE-ENTRY.” Classic me, right? Somehow, the travel gods were smiling on me because a super kind airport worker actually helped me get back in—and I was reunited with my phone, aka my whole life. But here comes the real culture shock: when I was thanking him for his help, he gave me a light slap on the butt. Uhhh… is that a thing here? 😂 I’m still not sure if I should be confused, flattered, or mildly concerned—but hey, the journey officially began! 🚅

Next stop: our hotel adventure. We stayed at Hotel Alps in Osaka, and while the location was perfect, the staff were lovely, and the price was super reasonable—there was just one tiny detail the English booking site forgot to mention: it was a love hotel. Yep, you read that right. Now before you panic—it was actually a great stay! The room was super clean, the jacuzzi was a vibe, and honestly, I’d recommend it for anyone who’s open to, let’s say, unique cultural experiences. But let’s just say, my mum had her first little cultural shock when we walked in and saw a girl in a full-on maid costume next to a drunk guy at the self check-in counter… clearly not a romantic couple. My mum just looked at me and whispered, “They’re… probably not together, right?” 😂

Our first night in Osaka was all about soaking in the energy of the city—and where better to start than the iconic Dotonbori (道頓堀)? The area buzzes with neon lights, sizzling street food, and a chaotic charm that pulls you right in. Of course, we couldn’t skip the legendary Glico Man (a.k.a. glitchy guy in all the best tourist selfies).

We hopped on a small boat cruise through the Dotonbori canal, letting the reflections of the city lights ripple around us while sipping on a well-earned beer. Floating past the glowing signs and laughter echoing from riverside restaurants was the perfect way to wind down our first day. Simple, magical.

The next morning, we had a light breakfast at our (love lol) hotel and we set our sights on Osaka Castle (大阪城)—but instead of hopping on a train, we decided to walk. A full hour of wandering through the waking city, coffee in hand, side streets waiting to be discovered. Our first stop? Kuromon Ichiba Market (黒門市場)—Osaka’s beloved local market known for fresh seafood, fruit, and all kinds of try-worthy bites. We grabbed our first coffee here (because priorities), before strolling onward.

As we made our way toward the castle, we also had time to explore some of Osaka’s quieter corners—lovely little streets lined with plants and peaceful Shinto (神道) and Buddhist (仏教) shrines. Shinto, meaning “the way of the gods,” is Japan’s indigenous spirituality focused on harmony with nature and respect for kami (神)—spiritual beings or deities that are believed to inhabit natural objects and landscapes. These shrines, often tucked between modern buildings or nestled in quiet corners, offer a moment of calm away from the city’s fast pace. Incense in the air, the gentle ringing of bells, and the soft shuffle of footsteps on stone paths—small moments that felt surprisingly grounding.

Not long after, we stumbled upon a small, clean, and beautifully minimal café called Hikaru Coffee Roasters. Highly recommend it—great beans, calm vibes, and just the right kind of spot to sit and breathe in the city.

It was definitely time for lunch, so we headed to a cozy underground ramen shop. We were the only foreigners there, which felt a bit awkward at first, but the owners were incredibly friendly and welcoming! The atmosphere was authentic, and the ramen was absolutely delicious—just the comfort food we needed.

Finally, we arrived at Osaka Castle (大阪城), originally built in 1583 by Toyotomi Hideyoshi (豊臣秀吉), is a symbol of Osaka’s rich history. The striking five-story tower, with its white and gold exterior, offers beautiful views of the surrounding Osaka Castle Park (大阪城公園), especially during sakura (桜) season when cherry blossoms are in full bloom. Inside, the castle has been modernized into a museum, showcasing exhibits about its history and Hideyoshi’s life. Whether you’re a history lover or just seeking a peaceful escape in the heart of Osaka, Osaka Castle is a must-visit for its blend of beauty and significance.

After an adventurous walk through the park. To rest our feet and enjoy the view, we hopped on one of the little tour carts that circle the castle grounds—a fun and breezy way to take it all in. All around us, families were out enjoying hanami (花見), the beloved Japanese tradition of cherry blossom viewing. The sakura (桜) trees were in full bloom, painting the park in soft shades of pink and white. It was such a joyful atmosphere—picnic blankets, laughter, bento boxes, and petals fluttering in the wind. A perfect spring day in the heart of Osaka.

We wrapped up the day with yet another delicious meal—because in Osaka, food adventures are never in short supply. This time, we stumbled into a more unexpected omakase (お任せ) experience—not in a fancy restaurant, but in a cozy local bar. It was casual, spontaneous, and totally authentic—the kind of place where the chef chats with you while preparing each dish right behind the counter. Definitely a fun twist on the usual omakase! Afterwards, we took one last evening stroll through Dotonbori (道頓堀), soaking in the electric atmosphere. The crowds, the glowing neon signs, the sound of laughter and sizzling street food—all of it created that unmistakable Osaka vibe. It was the perfect farewell to a city that never stops buzzing.

The next morning, we set off for Kyoto (京都), Japan’s ancient capital and cultural heart. Kyoto, home to around 1.45 million people, is renowned for its rich history, preserved architecture, and spiritual heritage. Once the imperial capital of Japan for over a thousand years, it remains a place where the past lives in harmony with the present. The city is famous for its thousands of Shinto shrines and Buddhist temples, centuries-old gardens, and traditional wooden townhouses (machiya 町家). One of the most iconic aspects of Kyoto is its geisha (芸者) culture. In the historic district of Gion (祇園), you might catch a glimpse of a maiko (舞妓)—an apprentice geisha—gracefully moving through the streets in ornate kimono, a symbol of refined beauty and tradition. Kyoto’s timeless charm lies in these moments: quiet, fleeting, and full of grace.

The train we had boared sped through the countryside, and out the windows unfolded a breathtaking view—delicate cherry blossoms in full bloom, soft pink petals drifting against winding rivers, and small traditional villages. It already felt like we had stepped into a dream. We wasted no time and headed straight to one of its most iconic sites: Fushimi Inari Taisha (伏見稲荷大社), also known as the “Shrine of a Thousand Gates” (千本鳥居). Fushimi Inari is famous for its seemingly endless path of bright red torii gates (鳥居), winding their way up Mount Inari (稲荷山). Each gate along the trail has been donated by individuals or businesses, their inscriptions (奉納, meaning “dedication”) wishing for prosperity and good fortune. Walking through the tunnels of vermilion gates feels almost otherworldly — the sunlight filters through the gaps, casting shifting patterns of red and gold along the stone paths.

The hike itself is surprisingly peaceful. Though the first stretch near the entrance is bustling with visitors, as you climb higher up the mountain, the crowds thin out. The air grows cooler and the atmosphere quieter. Along the way, we passed smaller shrines, fox statues (狐像, kitsune-zō) — foxes are considered sacred messengers of the god Inari), and breathtaking overlooks where you can catch glimpses of Kyoto sprawling out below.

The full hike to the summit and back can take about two hours if you walk at a relaxed pace, but even a shorter walk up the mountain offers a truly magical experience. We still made it to the end and eventually enjoyed a traditional tea stop while on our way back down. Fushimi Inari wasn’t just a place to sightsee — it felt like a journey through history (歴史), nature (自然), and spirit (精神), all woven together in the shifting light of thousands of red gates.

Afterwards, it was time to check in. We were eager to stay in a private, authentic Japanese place rather than a hotel, so I booked a traditional-style Airbnb—and it definitely did not disappoint. Through the bathroom window, we could see a serene private garden. It truly felt like a dream. And I must stay the beds was just amazingly conformable.

Then we set off to explore Gion (祇園), and I must admit—it truly felt like a dream.

You can probably tell by now just how much I adore sakura (桜) season—despite suffering from the world’s worst allergies, haha! We continued our stroll along the lively Yasaka Street (八坂通), where the iconic Yasaka Pagoda (八坂の塔, Yasaka no Tō) suddenly appeared between the narrow, winding alleys—a postcard-perfect moment. And yes… I may or may not have had about 74 ice creams that day. But hey, who’s counting when you’re in Kyoto during spring?

On our way, we caught a glimpse of the large Buddha statue at Rokuharamitsu-ji (六波羅蜜寺), but only from a distance, as we were hurrying toward Kiyomizu-dera (清水寺), the temple on the hill. Its gates close at 6 PM, and we were determined to make it in time. Along the way, we learned something touching: the small stone statues dressed in red scarves are called Jizō (地蔵), protectors of children, especially those who have passed away. It was both moving and meaningful to discover this tradition amidst such a beautiful setting.

After our dreamy stroll through Gion (祇園), we headed off in search of dinner. We finally sat down for a meal—and it was absolutely incredible. The rain was pouring down, and it took us quite a while to find a spot. I have to admit, in moments like these, I often feel a bit shy about searching for a restaurant, especially when everything is packed. But, as fate would have it, we ended up in a hidden gem that served an unforgettable dinner.

Back at our traditional-style Airbnb, we enjoyed the cozy low table and floor cushions (zabuton 座布団) with some convenience store (konbini コンビニ) ice cream—a perfect, quiet way to end the evening.

The next morning, our to-do list was still full of Kyoto magic. We kicked off the day in a unique café that served ice cream for breakfast (yes, really!). The place had white tablecloths, polished service, and all the waiters wore white gloves—it felt like stepping into a retro film set. Super cool! Afterward some more coffee! Then we strolled through Nishiki Market (錦市場), a bustling covered arcade filled with local delicacies, snacks, and souvenirs. We even saw a shrine built direct in the middle of it. From there, we made our way toward Nijō Castle (二条城, Nijō-jō), one of Kyoto’s most important historical landmarks.

Arriving at Nijō Castle, we took a walk around the impressive stone walls and traditional gates before getting our tickets. The castle, built in 1603 as the Kyoto residence of Tokugawa Ieyasu—the first shogun of the Edo period—was unlike anything I had imagined. Inside, it was strikingly empty: no elaborate furniture or decorations like you might expect in a European castle. Instead, the minimalist design, sliding doors (fusuma 襖), and singing tatami floors (畳) reflected the refined aesthetics of Japanese architecture. P.s. inside the castle it was not allowed to take pictures.

And of course… I had to add a bit of drama to the trip. I lost my phone. I only realized it much later—right when we wanted to take a photo of the cherry blossoms. Panic set in: my phone held everything—tickets, maps, cards, Google Translate, and basically my brain. I really need to be more careful. I admit it.. But luckily, this story has a happy ending. After a frantic search and some deep breathing, I found it at the lost and found office at the castle. Shoutout to my mum for staying calm through it all—you’re the real MVP.

After our visit to Nijō Castle (二条城), we made our way to one of Kyoto’s most iconic sights: Kinkaku-ji (金閣寺), the famous Golden Pavilion. This shimmering temple, officially named Rokuon-ji (鹿苑寺), is covered in gold leaf and reflected beautifully in the surrounding pond—a sight that feels straight out of a dream.

Our final stop in Kyoto was Arashiyama (嵐山), a scenic district on the western edge of the city. We boarded the train, excited for the adventure ahead. As it was sakura (桜) season, the journey itself felt like part of the experience. Sadly, the rain started again—but nothing too bad. Luckily, my mom, always super prepared, had an umbrella. I ended up buying an adorable one from a charming traditional café where we stopped for a sweet treat. There, we enjoyed kakigōri (かき氷)—shaved ice with a delicate pear flavor—and a warm matcha (抹茶) drink served with small round grilled rice cakes, yaki-dango (焼き団子). It was the perfect little pause.

We then walked through the lush, rain-soaked Japanese gardens, which are actually part of a UNESCO World Heritage site. Despite the drizzle, the atmosphere was magical—misty trees, moss-covered stones, and that serene quiet you can only find in Japan. We also squeezed in a quick stroll through the Arashiyama Bamboo Grove (竹林の小径). Even though we were short on time and had to rush a bit, the experience was still incredible. The towering bamboo and the ethereal light filtering through gave everything a surreal, almost otherworldly feel—like walking through an ancient ethnographic painting.

From there, we made our way to Nara (奈良), a city famous for its sacred deer and ancient temples. Sadly, by the time we arrived, most of the major sights had already closed for the day—including Tōdai-ji (東大寺), home to Japan’s largest bronze Buddha, the impressive Daibutsu (大仏). Although we couldn’t see it up close, we still enjoyed a peaceful evening stroll around Sarusawa Pond (猿沢池), watching the gentle ripples and the pagoda reflections as the sun set.

Of course, we didn’t miss out on saying hello to some of Nara’s beloved deer (shika, 鹿), who bowed politely in hopes of a snack. And yes—I absolutely caved and bought the cutest yukata (浴衣) as a souvenir. Naturally, I turned the quiet park into my personal photoshoot spot and had my ever-patient mom snap about a hundred photos. Thanks, Mom! 😄

It was truly bittersweet when it came time to head home. Our trip felt far too short, and there’s still so much more left to explore. But above all, the most special part was the precious time spent with my mom—sharing laughs, adventures, and unforgettable memories. I’ll definitely be back one day to relive these beautiful moments… and to create even more.

And for now…

…stay tuned

Au revoir

– M

Café Chronicles -> Sogang Univ.

March 15, 2025May 25, 20251 Comment

Hey beautiful friends & enemies~

As a proud Sogang child, I’ve spent countless hours on and around Sogang University (서강대학교)—whether it’s studying, training with my racquetball club, or just enjoying the familiar atmosphere. Back in 2017-2018, I first came here as an exchange student, and in 2024, I was back for my PhD research, once again calling Sogang my academic home. Naturally, after all this time, I’ve developed a deep love for certain places around campus, some of which have been my go-to spots for years, while others are new favorites that I’ve recently discovered. Here are some of my top picks around Sogang!

Alles Coffee (알레스 커피) – An absolute OG, standing strong since 2015. I’ve already raved about it in a previous post, so I’ll just link it here for anyone interested. Café Chronicles -> Seoul: alles Café 알레스카페 Trust me, it’s worth checking out! https://www.instagram.com/allescafe2015/

Kauf Rosters (카우프 커피 로스터스) -o, I absolutely love their cold brew (콜드브루)—it’s smooth, rich, and just the perfect pick-me-up. And what’s even more exciting? They recently launched a new menu, featuring an Injeolmi Tiramisu (인절미 티라미수) that’s seriously so good! If you’re a fan of traditional Korean flavors with a modern twist, this one is a must-try. Another standout from their menu is their special drink with coconut ice cream —a unique and refreshing combo that totally hit the spot. Overall, everything here is really solid, but if we’re talking about black coffee, this place really knows what they’re doing. What more the cafe has a sleek, industrial-style interior with raw concrete walls, dark tones, and minimalist decor. The space is well-balanced with modern lighting and large windows that add warmth to the moody atmosphere. Clean lines, dark wood furniture, and an open barista station create a stylish yet cozy setting perfect for coffee lovers. Its design perfectly blends modern sophistication with industrial elements, creating a refined yet edgy ambiance that feels both trendy and timeless. Definitely a must-visit for coffee lovers! https://www.instagram.com/kaufff.roasters/

Hawfinch (호핀치) – This place holds a special place in my heart because of their banana pudding, and by now, everyone knows about my obsession with it. Especially their chocolate version of it… Mhmm… The interior is a blend of earthy tones, natural wood, and soft lighting, creating a warm and inviting space for coffee lovers. It is highly praised for its high-quality coffee and carefully curated menu, offering a variety of hand-drip coffee, espresso-based drinks, and unique seasonal specials. Their latte art is stunning, making every cup feel extra special. Beyond the drinks, Café Hawfinch also serves delicious homemade desserts and pastries. If you’re lucky, you might even get a taste of their freshly baked goods, straight from the oven. The aroma inside is always incredible, making it the perfect spot to indulge in something sweet while sipping on a perfectly brewed coffee. I usually grab my morning coffee from here, as their cold brew is right up my alley—smooth, strong, and absolutely delicious. If you love aesthetic cafés with a focus on quality coffee, this place is definitely worth a visit. https://www.instagram.com/cafe.hawfinch/

The Credit (더크레딧) – one of my all-time favorite spots, and I find myself visiting almost every day. This café offers a cozy, laid-back atmosphere that makes it an ideal place to relax and enjoy high-quality coffee. The minimalist interior design perfectly matches the vibe, creating a calm, peaceful environment to either get some work done. The coffee here is consistently exceptional, and their drip coffee—both hot and cold—is my go-to. I also tried their latte variations, pretty good. In addition to their great coffee, they have a nice selection of teas. Another highlight is their French toast, which is absolutely delicious. One of the best parts is that The Credit also functions as a bar, so it’s the perfect place to unwind with a glass of wine or a gin tonic after a long day. The staff is friendly, adding to the welcoming vibe, and the ambiance is perfect for spending time with friends or just enjoying some time alone. All in all, it’s a great spot for coffee lovers, casual hangouts, or even a nightcap. https://www.instagram.com/cafe_the_credit/

Biroso Coffee (비로소 커피) – it may not be my most frequent stop, as places like Kauf, Credit, and Hawfinch usually draw me in, but every visit reminds me of just how good their coffee is. Their menu is impressive, and their Einspänner is especially delicious—rich, creamy, and perfectly balanced. What truly makes this spot special is the view; their large window overlooks Gyeongui Line Forest Park (경의선 숲길), or Yeonnam-dong’s Cherry Blossom Road (연남동 벚꽃길), which is absolutely stunning in the spring when the cherry blossoms are in full bloom. As someone who loves rain, this is one of my favorite places to visit when it’s raining. The peaceful vibe and cozy interior make it feel extra magical, especially when the raindrops tap against the window. So, definitely forth a check out. https://www.instagram.com/birosocoffee/

On&Puff – is newly opened charming bakery that combines a cozy atmosphere with the delightful aroma of freshly baked pastries. Specializing in French-style pastries, they also offer pretty decent drinks. I tried their iced americano and iced vanilla latte, both were quite satisfying. I absolutely loved their pain au chocolat and croissants, but everything they offer is delicious. It’s definitely one of the best spots for European-style bread around Sogang. The only downside is the limited seating, with only three tables inside, but the vibe and quality make it totally worth visiting. https://www.instagram.com/on_and_puff/

Calmild (카밀드) – truly lives up to its name—calm and mild. This charming café offers a perfect blend of exceptional coffee and mouthwatering food, all in a serene, minimalist environment. The space exudes warmth and comfort, making it an ideal spot to unwind or focus on some work (during the quieter hours of course). I’m a big fan of their iced Americano, which never disappoints, and their tuna sandwich is a must-try, although it’s a bit on the pricier side. Additionally, their French toast is another standout item that I absolutely love. Whether you’re in the mood for a coffee break or a light meal, Calmild delivers both in a cozy and inviting atmosphere. I do enjoy visiting it quite frequently, although I must admit, I don’t go too often due to their prices. https://www.instagram.com/calmild_home/

Cafe Anon (카페안온) – I’m mentioning this place mainly because of their Sogum Bang (소금빵) or also called Salt bread, which is absolutely one of the best I’ve had so far. A huge thanks to my friend J for introducing it to me (I first tried their Salt bread when I was in the hospital, and I instantly fell in love with it). Sogum Bang is a soft, fluffy buttery bread that’s lightly salted on the outside, creating a perfect balance between sweet and savory flavors. It’s slightly crispy on the outside, with a soft, airy texture inside. This said, while I do get their Salt Bread often, I don’t visit the café that frequently, but the Sogum Bang is definitely worth mentioning! https://www.instagram.com/cafe__anon__/

There are also places I visit occasionally, but they just don’t make it to my top list. For example, Sulton Coffee (술탄커피), (another OG I’ve known since 2017, but it’s not really my style. However, they do serve alcoholic beverages, and their peach highball is definitely worth trying. https://www.instagram.com/sulta_ncoffee/ RIP Brewing Mansion (브루잉맨숀), which I actually liked very much but that’s closed now. Really unfortunate as I loved their delicious scones. https://www.instagram.com/brewing_mansion/

P.s. Before it melts (녹기 전에) – while it’s not exactly a traditional café (though they do have a few seats inside and plenty of books to browse), this place is absolutely worth mentioning as one of my all-time favorite gelato spots near university. They offer an amazing variety of unique and ever-changing flavors, so there’s always a delightful surprise with each visit. If you’re in the area, it’s definitely a must-visit for anyone who loves creative, crazy, colorful and high-quality gelato! https://www.instagram.com/before.it.melts/

There are definitely a few more spots I still want to check out, but I haven’t gotten around to them yet. I guess it’s just my habit of picking a few favorites and sticking to them, haha!

And for now…

…stay tuned

Au revoir

– M

Wanderlog -> Paradise Found: Our Jeju Island Weekend Escape

August 8, 2024March 21, 2025Leave a comment

This summer, I returned to Jeju Island for the third time, but it was a special trip—my first time back since the pandemic. It had been a long-anticipated getaway with my boyfriend, who, like many, struggles to get vacation time approved at work. Originally, we had planned a couples’ trip to Yeosu, another beautiful beach destination in Korea, but unfortunately, we had to cancel last minute when he couldn’t get the time off. I have to admit, I was pretty disappointed, thinking our chance for a vacation might slip away entirely. But, just when I thought all hope was lost, we managed to make it work! On August 9th, after he finished work around 6 PM, we boarded a late flight to Jeju with Jeju Air. It felt like the perfect spontaneous weekend escape.

But let’s start from the beginning. Minjun and I met halfway, since his office was on the way to Gimpo International Airport. On the way, he surprised me with a beautiful hat (though, I chose it myself, haha). We caught a late Jeju Air flight, and I was excited for this much-needed getaway.

To save some money, we took the bus instead of a taxi (only less than 2,000 KRW per person, compared to a 20,000 KRW taxi fare). The bus ride took about 35 minutes, while a car would’ve been just 20. By the time we got on the bus, it was past 10 PM, and most places were already shut for the night.

We finally arrived at the hotel, and that’s when things got a little… disappointing. We chose Grabel Hotel which is a modern, 4-star hotel. We chose this hotel actually because it was the closest one to the airport as, well, time was limited. Plus, the hotel has a rooftop pool with amazing ocean views, which I had been dying to check out.

But.. the staff wasn’t very friendly, and we didn’t feel very welcomed. Maybe it was because we didn’t look too fancy (to be fair, we were just two tired travelers), but it felt like we were treated as though we didn’t belong. For example, when we checked in, we weren’t given any info about breakfast. So, when I asked the front desk guy where breakfast was served and how it worked, his response was: “Wait… you have breakfast? Really?” Like, seriously? Dude, it’s your job to know this.Whatmore, the hotel didn’t allow food in the rooms (seriously?) unless it was room service, and if we wanted to eat in the room, we’d have to pay a 20,000 Korean Won cleaning fee. The all in experience was a bit of a letdown.

The good news was that we were able to book a nice suite in the hotel, thanks to some luck with Booking.com Genius rewards and discounts! Our room was actually amazing—on a high floor with a spacious bathroom, a big bathtub, a dining area, a lounging space, a TV, and, best of all, a direct view of the ocean. Another great perk was the lounge on our floor, open daily from (I think?) 3 PM to 6 or 7 PM. They had cakes, snacks, cookies, drinks, and even unlimited beer—all free of charge. A total win!

We were starving by this point, so we decided to head out in search of food. After some searching, we found a little local spot and grabbed a bowl of what I think was kimchi jjigae—it was comforting and delicious, of course, both of our phone batteries had died by then, so we couldn’t even capture the moment. After a satisfying (and late… very late) dinner, we headed back to the hotel, where I took a much-needed bath while dreaming about the next day.

By the way, a quick tip for anyone visiting Jeju: restaurants, cafes, and eateries close really early!

The next day Saturday was all about the beach and endless ocean time—and honestly, I couldn’t wait to dive in! Our day started with a quick breakfast and then we took the bus to our first beach destination.

This felt like a bit of an adventure, as we were relying on public transportation to explore the island. Luckily, the bus stop was right in front of the hotel, making it super convenient. Oh, and by the way, I have to mention—I really loved the dress I was wearing. I got it back in 2018, but it’s definitely one of my favorite holiday pieces!

Located about 20 minutes away from Grabel Hotel, Gwakji Beach is known for its warm waters and beautiful scenery. We were excited to spend the day soaking up the sun and taking in the stunning views of the coastline. If you’re planning to visit, here’s the location on Naver Maps for easier navigation. Definitely worth the trip! Obviously we took a stop at the local juice stand to get some tangerine fresh pressed juice (before we stopped at the pharmacy to get some extra allergy pils for me….).

After a fun time at Gwakji Beach (곽지해수욕장), we were pretty sandy and definitely not in the mood to put on our regular clothes. But before hopping on the bus to our next stop, I realized I wasn’t quite comfortable running around in my bathing suit (even though it wasn’t a bikini). So, I quickly popped into a local shop and grabbed an “Fantastic Jeju” shirt—problem solved! Haha.With my new shirt on, we caught the bus to Geumneung Beach (금능해수욕장) in Hallim-eup (한림읍), Jeju. The temperature was a sweltering 34°C, but with the sun cranked up, it felt more like 40°C—definitely a scorcher! You can find Geumneung Beach on Naver Maps if you’re planning to go!

After our second beach trip and a lot more ocean water to cool off, we were definitely feeling tired. But that didn’t stop us! We went to explore the area and found some pretty cute cafes. By the way… I got a pretty bad sunburn… which hurt sososososososoosos bad…

We headed straight to the rooftop pool at the hotel, grabbed some cocktails (which were actually included—score!), and relaxed while enjoying the stunning sunset.

By the way can you feel the pain of my sun burn…? >.< The day wrapped up with us enjoying some of the hotel’s facilities, and of course, I ended it perfectly with a relaxing bath.

The next morning, we had breakfast again and set off to explore more of Jeju. Unfortunately, I couldn’t swim in the ocean anymore because, well… it was that time again. But instead, we made the most of the day—we went horseback riding, visited a gallery, and even took a canoe out on the shore. Even though I was pretty sad about missing out on another ocean swim, the day’s highlight more than made up for it! But before I get to that—first, let me show off my OOTD because I absolutely loved it. Here are some pictures, haha!

Our first stop was the horse farm, and wow, it had been a long time since I last sat on a horse! I used to ride when I was little—around 5 or 6 years old—back when I lived in Hungary. Later, I took horseback riding classes again in boarding school in Denmark. But believe it or not, the last time I was actually on a horse was ten years ago! And a random fun fact—one of the zombie attack scenes from the Korean Netflix drama Kingdom was actually filmed on the other side of the horse farm! Haha, kind of wild to think about while casually riding a horse.

Then, the super nice guy from the horse farm—or actually, his wife—drove us to the gallery. She even recommended some great local restaurants that only the locals know about. Such a sweet gesture!

We saw a really unique exhibition on Jeju artist their life, and also 해녀 (haenyeo)—the legendary female divers of Jeju. These incredible women free-dive deep into the ocean without oxygen tanks to harvest seafood, carrying on a centuries-old tradition. It was fascinating to learn more about their history and way of life!

Then we headed to a so-called “hip” area near Hamdeok Beach (함덕해변), known for its charming cafés, trendy restaurants, and cute shops that attract tons of tourists. The vibe was super lively, and it was fun just strolling around and soaking it all in! Eventually, we caught a glimpse of the canoes and decided to give it a try. At first, it was super fun, but at some points, the waves got pretty intense, making it a little scary. At least they gave us these cute waterproof skirts to keep us from getting completely soaked—haha, a small but much-needed fashionable accent… who knew canoeing could be this stylish? 😂🚣‍♀️ Oh, and before hopping into the see-through canoe, they also gave us slippers to change into—because, obviously, wet shoes are not the vibe

After such an adventure, we definitely needed something sweet to cool down, lift our spirits, and reward ourselves for all the excitement (and slight terror) we had just experienced on the water! So, of course, we went on the hunt for a cozy café to indulge in some well-deserved treats. To be honest.. we went to two cafes..

Finally our highlight of the trip! Minjun had the best idea—renting Kakao Bikes to ride back to the hotel. We thought it would be a quick and easy ride, but we totally misjudged the distance. The bike paths were set in a way that took us on a much longer route, and we ended up biking for nearly two hours! But honestly, it was breathtaking—riding along Jeju’s coastal roads felt like paradise on earth.

For those who don’t know, Kakao Bikes are shared electric bikes you can rent through the Kakao T app. They’re super convenient, and you can pick them up and drop them off at designated spots around the city.

I must admit I have never seen something this beautiful. That was until the sun started to set… 😬 After about 40 minutes of biking, even with the help of the electric motor, things got a little too intense. It got dark fast, and at times, the path was way too close to the cliffs—like, we could hear the waves crashing 300 meters below, just centimeters from our wheels. And guess what? No real fences. OMG, way too scary. The moment we found a return station, we ditched the bikes and took the bus for the last three stops. But oh god… the bus was packed! We were exhausted, squished like sardines, but at least we made it back in one piece. What a ride!

The day ended with some room service and we enjoyed the last night of our vacation.And the next day came in a blink of an eye.

Then, eventually, we finally took a taxi (wow, we actually didn’t take the bus this time, haha) to the airport. We grabbed some coffee, and of course, I couldn’t resist picking up some cookies only available in Jeju from Paris Baguette (save my soul). The nutty caramel smell was absolutely driving me crazy while I was waiting for boarding.

We boarded the flight, and I was off to get a “vacation for my vacation,” while Minjun had to head straight to work—yep, we took the morning flight, and he had to dive right into a couple of overnight shifts. He works in news for a broadcasting station, helping with camerawork, so there was no rest for him!

And this was it for the trip to “paradice on earth”

P.s. very random fact—the first time I ever heard about Jeju Island was through the K-drama Paradise Ranch (파라다이스 목장). It’s an old-school rom-com from 2011, set against Jeju’s stunning landscapes, and follows a young couple who impulsively marry at 19, divorce soon after, and then fatefully reunite years later. Classic K-drama chaos! I remember watching it and falling in love with Jeju’s scenic beaches, green fields, and horseback riding scenes—who knew I’d actually experience all of that myself one day?

I think I should definitely re-watch it sometime… of course, only after I finish writing my thesis. Well… hopefully by summer. 🤞😂

And for now…

…stay tuned

Au revoir

– M

Seoul Odyssey Diaries -> Finding a place to live in Seoul

July 5, 2024March 15, 2025Leave a comment

As I mentioned in my last post, I have moved to Korea lately… And finding a place to live was not an easy journey.

To give a bit of background on how the Korean housing industry works, there are essentially two main aspects to consider: the type of housing and the payment method. This allows individuals to choose from various options based on how they prefer to pay for their living arrangements.

In South Korea, housing options for the average person generally fall into three categories based on the size of the living space:

One-room (원룸): These compact studio apartments typically consist of a single large room that serves multiple purposes, often including a kitchenette and bathroom within the same space.
Officetel (오피스텔): Known for their blend of “office” and “hotel,” officetels are studio apartments that may include small kitchen facilities and often have (but not necessarily) separate areas for sleeping and living, making them slightly larger than traditional one-room apartments.
Apartments (아파트): Larger than one-room and officetel units, apartments in Korea usually feature multiple rooms, including separate bedrooms, a living room, kitchen, and sometimes additional amenities such as balconies or extra storage space.

Also, in Korea you use pyeong (평) which is equal to approximately 3.3058 square meters or about 35.58 square feet. It’s commonly used in South Korea to describe the size of rooms or apartments. For example, when looking at apartment listings or discussing the size of a room in Korea, you might hear measurements like “30 pyeong,” which would mean 30 times the size of one pyeong, or around 99.18 square meters

Among these options, apartments are typically the most expensive and sought-after due to their amenities and convenience. Studio apartments come next in terms of expense, while living spaces in villas—usually older in style and construction—are generally the most affordable option. (Other types of housing, such as share houses, goshiwons, and guest families, exist but will not be discussed here.)

Apartments, especially those in complexes, are favored for their added conveniences like private security, communal cleaning services, and nearby amenities such as convenience stores, study rooms, libraries, gyms, and sometimes childcare facilities. However, older apartment complexes may not offer as many modern amenities.

Studio apartments or officetels are typically smaller spaces often with high ceilings and loft-like features. Although they may not be in high-rise buildings like apartments, they tend to be modern and cleaner compared to equivalent spaces in older villa-style buildings.

Lastly, villa living spaces are often favored by students or individuals new to living alone due to their affordability. While some villas may be well-maintained or newly remodeled, many are older and less modern in design and interior, making them less luxurious compared to apartments.

It’s worth noting that while most people may not stay in villas for extended periods, there are individuals and families who prefer these quieter, less urban areas often found in regions with a more relaxed, small-town atmosphere.

I personally have only lived in a villa myself (in a one-room last year and two-room now) but have visited friends who live both in officetels and apartments.

Usually you can either rent or buy a home but in Korea there are more options for that. Buying is way too expensive so I will not talk about this option.. First thing to keep in mind, the deposits for housing in Korea are huge.. And when I say huge I mean HUGE. And the more deposit you pay desto cheaper your rent gets. Then there is this: pay a big amount at once and ‘pay no rent at all’ system as well.

For example let’s take a one-room (around 14 square meters) style place in a villa which includes a “kitchen” and also gets a small bathroom-toilet place as well. Of course the area in which you will choose to live has a big influence over the price as well. Let’s imagine this place is somewhere near a train station not too far from the main areas, still not in the expensive zone such as Gangnam or Haewha. You can pay 5k in deposit and pay 600 rent for a small one room place nevertheless if you pay 20k your rent will be 300 per month and if you pay 50k you will only pay 150 rent per month. If you use the second option you pay around 100k and pay no rent at all. The deposit will be given back to you after you move out. Of course stuff like internet, gas, water etc. are paid extra.

I will add pictures of the place I stayed at last year so that you have some imagination of what I am talking about. I used to live in Geondae, a 6 minute foot walk from line 2 and 7. This place was a 5k deposit and 600 rent plus utensils and the so-called maintenance coast. which added up to roughly 650-700 a month. In winter tho with heating costs it was more. My room was pretty small and had one single bed and a small dining area with a small kitchen-place.

You can also see the transformation this place made through the time haha..

This said I will give a small insight into how the process of house-hunting went for me this year. I knew from the beginning that I could only afford rent-style living. The first crucial step was selecting the right area to live in. Economic factors played a significant role since rent prices vary widely depending on the neighborhood. This meant I had to look beyond the bustling city center and explore more affordable options further out. For me, proximity to a reliable metro line was non-negotiable. I preferred living within walking distance of the metro because I’m not a fan of buses—they tend to make me feel queasy. Especially with the rollercoaster-like rides in Korea.

Considering the need to go to Sogang University (accessible via lines 2 and 6) quickly and occasional volunteering at the Lithuanian Embassy (requiring lines 3, 5, and 1), finding a location with minimal transfers to both places was crucial. While my favorite parts of Seoul—Seongsu, Anguk, Mulle, Hanam—are ideal, they are beyond my budget. I aimed for a place larger than a one-room apartment, preferably with three rooms: one for work, one for sleeping, and one for hosting friends—a kitchen space was also essential.

In the end, three neighborhoods caught my attention: Bulgwan and Yeonshine (accessible via lines 6 and 3) in the northwest of Seoul, near its outskirts; Miya or Suyu (line 4); and Gunza (line 7), closer to the center but farther from both the University and Embassy. Despite their distance, Bulgwan and Yeonshine stood out as the most affordable options for apartments larger than 15 square meters, based on listings from mobile housing apps like Zigbang 직방. More than Bulgwan the area of Yeonshine seemed living-friendly so it was set. Yeonshine it should be. It took about two months of intensive research to identify a couple of suitable options through the app and then arrange viewings with a Budongsan 부동산 (housing broker company).

The photos on the app often differed significantly from the real apartments, adding to the stress of the process. After meeting with numerous brokers and visiting multiple apartments, I eventually settled on a decent-looking option that met my basic criteria, though the search was draining both physically and emotionally. The apartment I am living in right now actually is a bit uphill and it is quite tiresome to get home and I keep on contemplating every time I am going outside. But why did I choose this in the first place? Because the apartment that I visited before this one was literally on a mountain it was pretty cheap considering it having three rooms and a extra kitchen space and terrace, nevertheless climbing up to this place was literally hell (it was not even hot at that time) so visiting the place I live in right now seemed more than fine at that time haha

So… In the end, I signed a two-year lease since shorter options were scarce, especially in less central areas with fewer foreigners and exchange students. And so, I found myself settling into what I now consider home, at least for the foreseeable future.

I’ll delve into more details about the layout, decor, and overall feel of my new place in the next post, as this one has already become quite lengthy.

And for now…

…stay tuned

Au revoir

– M

Seoul Odyssey Diaries -> I am Back

June 24, 2024March 15, 2025Leave a comment

From the beginning of June I’m back in S. Korea, Seoul. It’s been a while since I last wrote something (I know, I always start my posts by apologizing for my absence…).

A lot has happened since my last update. More than a year has passed, and I actually spent June to December of 2023 in Korea, working at the Lithuanian Embassy and conducting my PhD research. After returning to Lithuania, I started teaching courses on Korea at Vytautas Magnus University (VMU) in Kaunas again. I also got engaged (yey).

I had promised myself that I would document my last journey in Korea, creating a diary-like record to look back on. Unfortunately, I failed to do so, and I’m quite upset about it. To prevent this from happening again, I’ve decided to set a goal of updating my blog once a week. I’ll write down the most important events, even if it’s just a couple of sentences, with some pictures to capture the moments.

Soooo… this said. I am back in Korea! This time, I was fortunate to win a Korea Foundation grant for PhD field study and research in South Korea, affiliated with Sogang University. I still have quite a bit of work left to do with my thesis, including collecting more interviews with middle and high school history teachers and delving deeper into the narration of Korean history. If everything goes according to plan, I will be able to defend my thesis next fall. Until then, I have to stay focused and keep working.

Since I came here for my research, having a dedicated workspace was a top priority for me. I tend to work best at night (not the healthiest schedule, I know), so having a home office usually works better for me than an actual office or library. I wanted to create a space at home that inspires me to work, and I think I did a pretty good job setting up a decent workspace. But I think I will do a separate interior post.

I mustn’t forget to mention my beloved lizard, my baby boy Kuki (aka Cookie), who is actually a blue-tongued skink. He’s finally returned home, and I owe a tremendous thank you to the gracious family of Lithuania’s Ambassador. They took care of him while I was in Lithuania, showing immense kindness and generosity.

There are a lot of things I still want to share with you, but for now, just a short greeting from Seoul.

And for now…

…stay tuned

Au revoir

– M

Wanderlog -> first time in Hanoi, Vietnam

August 2, 2023June 2, 2025Leave a comment

Hey beautiful friends & enemies~

Vietnam has always been a curious destination for me, and I finally got the chance to explore its vibrant capital, Hanoi in summer 2023. It was a 3 nights 4 days trip. From the bustling streets filled with motorbikes to the historic architecture that blends French colonial past with traditional Vietnamese elements, Hanoi is truly a city that captures the essence of the country. In this post, I’ll share my first impressions of Hanoi, dive into the rich cultural experiences I had, and talk about everything I’ve experienced. So, join me as I explore this incredible city and its unique charm.

I traveled to Vietnam with my friend Jyuni, and of course, I had to encounter some self-inflicted difficulties along the way. Since Jyuni is Korean, she didn’t need a visa to visit Vietnam. But as someone with a European passport, I was in a different situation. Naturally, I completely forgot that I needed a visa! It wasn’t until just three days before our trip, during a casual outing with friends, when someone casually asked, “Hey, have you got your visa sorted?” That was my wake-up call. Panic set in as I rushed to complete the online visa registration right away. Thankfully, I managed to get everything sorted just a couple of hours before our flight. I was shaking with nerves up until the last minute! So, folks, a little tip: don’t forget your visa! Trust me, it’s much better to get it sorted early than to face last-minute stress.

Now before we start a quick introduction to the country. Vietnam is a socialist republic with a one-party system, led by the Communist Party of Vietnam. The country has been under communist rule since 1975, after the end of the Vietnam War, when North and South Vietnam were unified. Despite being a communist country, Vietnam has embraced a more market-oriented economy since the Đổi Mới (Renovation) reforms in the late 1980s. These reforms opened door to greater foreign investment and trade, leading to rapid economic growth and development, especially in cities like Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City. However, political freedoms are limited, and the Communist Party maintains tight control over the country’s governance. Hanoi, the capital, is a fascinating blend of old-world charm and modern energy. As one of the oldest capitals in the world, it boasts centuries-old architecture, like the French-style buildings and historic temples, alongside the hustle and bustle of daily life. The city’s Old Quarter is a maze of narrow streets filled with street food vendors and local shops, offering a deep dive into Vietnamese culture. Hanoi is also famous for its lakes, like Hoan Kiem Lake, which serves as a peaceful retreat in the heart of the city.

With all the excitement of our journey, we boarded the plane and arrived in Hanoi just a few hours later. It was already quite late by the time we landed, so we hopped in a cab and headed straight to our hotel. But of course, no adventure truly begins without a midnight snack, right? Craving something local, we ventured out into the quiet, lantern-lit streets—and we struck gold. We found a cozy little spot serving pho, the iconic Vietnamese noodle soup. Made with a deeply flavorful broth, silky rice noodles, fresh herbs, and your choice of tender beef (pho bo) or chicken (pho ga), it was everything we needed and more. Light yet satisfying, it hit the spot perfectly after a long day of travel.Of course, we didn’t stop there. We also indulged in some classic Vietnamese bites like crispy spring rolls and juicy slices of fresh mango—because when in Hanoi, why not start your culinary journey right away?

Our hotel was great, and the buffet breakfast was fantastic. Despite having a severe allergy to fruits, I couldn’t resist stuffing myself with apple mangos (even though I knew better). But.. They were just too delicious!

Unfortunately, the weather didn’t play in our favor. It was extremely humid and hot, yet it was also quite cloudy and rainy at times. Our plan to relax at the hotel pool quickly fell apart as the weather just wasn’t cooperating. But hey, it’s all part of the adventure, right?

On our first day in Vietnam, we went on a motorcycle tour, and it was an absolute blast! It was actually my first time ever riding a motorcycle, which added to the thrill. Before we hit the road, we decided to do something super touristy and bought traditional Vietnamese costumes (ao dai), which was a lot of fun and definitely a cool experience.

Our guides were around our age, young, fluent in English, and, of course, locals. They took us to the must-see tourist attractions, like Hoan Kiem Lake (Hồ Hoàn Kiếm) and the famous train street (Ng. 224 Lê Duẩn, Đống Đa, Hà Nội, Vietnam), but they also showed us some hidden gems that most tourists don’t know about, which made the experience feel so much more authentic. Along the way, they told us something interesting: in Vietnam, it’s common for women to do most of the hard work, while men often take it easy and relax. Hmm, that was definitely an eye-opener! What more, they introduced couple of local places with amazing food.

Another thing we made sure to do every day (sometimes twice a day!) was get a massage. Whether it was a hot stone, facial, or a back and foot massage, we couldn’t get enough. And the best part? It was incredibly affordable—about 20-30 bucks for a two-hour session. Talk about a deal!

We also ate a lot of local food, but there was one place we couldn’t resist trying: a popular pizzeria that was packed with locals. There was no chance of getting a seat without a reservation. It was a bit of a break from Vietnamese food, but we were definitely glad we gave it a try! And ofc ourse some ice cream with mango as desert! Now, on to the culture shock… As an introvert, I found it a bit nerve-wracking that street vendors and salespeople often tried to grab your hand or touch you while enthusiastically shouting their sales pitch. It definitely took me by surprise, but I guess it’s just part of the hustle and bustle of Vietnamese street life!

The next morning, Jyuni and I set off on our much-anticipated Ha Long Bay tour. We had pre-booked a boat tour, so everything was smooth and easy from the start. As we left Hanoi behind, the scenery quickly turned lush and green—Vietnam’s countryside in all its peaceful beauty. On the way to the bay, we made a quick but fascinating stop at a pearl farm, where we got to see how pearls are cultivated and harvested. It was such a unique experience, and definitely not something we expected!

Once we reached Ha Long Bay, we boarded our boat and began cruising through the emerald waters, surrounded by towering limestone karsts. Along the way, we took a break and hopped into kayaks, paddling through serene waters and exploring hidden lagoons. It was an incredible way to get up close to the bay’s natural beauty.

Our final stop was a stunning island with caves (I forgot its name.. lol), where we explored dramatic formations that looked like something out of a fantasy movie. The caves were home to bats, adding an extra layer of excitement to our adventure. It was the perfect mix of nature, adventure, and peaceful vibes. Ha Long Bay truly lived up to the hype!

The next day was our last in Hanoi, but since our flight wasn’t until the evening, we had time to squeeze in a bit more exploration. We started our day with a relaxing coffee at a local café, then set out to enjoy a few more of the city’s attractions before saying our goodbyes.

We eventually signed up for a cooking class—a perfect final taste of Vietnamese culture. The experience began with a visit to a bustling local market, where we shopped for fresh ingredients alongside our guide. It was a fun and colorful way to see how locals source their produce, herbs, and spices. Back at the kitchen, we rolled up our sleeves and learned how to make a few Vietnamese classics, including the beloved pho and the unique, creamy egg coffee. It was hands-on, delicious, and such a memorable way to wrap up our time in Vietnam before heading to the airport.

And eventually it was now the end of the journey and we had to head back to reality – Seoul.

And for now…

…stay tuned

Au revoir

– M

Wanderlog -> First time in London! Fashion Week, Tate Modern, The Globe theatre & more

June 16, 2019August 20, 2025Leave a comment

Hey beautiful friends & enemies~

London left an indelible mark on me. While it might be a bit of a stretch to call it one of the top five days of my life, it was, without a doubt, an experience that will stay with me forever.

The main reason for my visit was to attend Chanel Joan Elkayam’s AW19 collection showcase during London Fashion Week. But it was also the perfect opportunity to finally reconnect with one of my best friends, Ruga, who lives there. I had been dreaming of this trip for years, and, for one reason or another, it kept eluding me.

The first night was wonderfully laid-back. Ruga picked me up from Golders Green, and we hopped on the tube to her place, catching up along the way. But it was the second day that truly captured my heart. I dove headfirst into all the quintessential tourist experiences, wandering through Soho and getting lost in the historical charm of London’s old city.

The architecture, the history, the life—it all left me breathless. It quickly became one of my favorite cities, second only to Dresden (for sentimental reasons, of course). I couldn’t resist snapping photos at every turn, and Ruga, bless her, became my personal photographer, dutifully capturing me in front of every iconic landmark we came across. I’m sure my friends were secretly cursing me for making them pause for every shot!

On day three, Ruga and I ventured to Camden. While I enjoyed the area, it had a certain familiarity to Berlin that made it less distinct in my mind. After a few hours, I set my sights on the Tate Modern, but I miscalculated the time and arrived just as they were locking the doors. It turned out to be a blessing in disguise. I spent the rest of the evening walking along the Thames, the soft glow of the lights along the riverside casting a magical ambiance. It felt like I was in a dream. Later, I met up with another friend who was also in town for Fashion Week, and we ended the night with my very first fish and chips, paired perfectly with a pint of Guinness—a quintessential British experience that I had somehow missed all these years. We also took some time to enjoy London’s night views and wandered down Baker Street—which was especially exciting for me, since I’ve always been a big Sherlock Holmes fan.

But the real magic happened on the 19th, the day of the Fashion Show. My friend and I met for an early lunch at a quaint spot, where I tried a vegan burger that exceeded all my expectations, especially the vegan cheese—it was absolutely delicious. After a leisurely stroll, we found ourselves in a charming little bakery, a pastel-colored wonderland filled with whimsical decorations and cheeky illustrations that made both children and adults laugh. We indulged in tea and cupcakes, savoring the sweet simplicity of the moment.

Finally, we made our way to the venue for Chanel Joan Elkayam’s show. True to the tradition of fashion shows, it started fashionably late, heightening the anticipation. But the wait was well worth it. The show was absolutely mesmerizing, with the addition of live music creating an electric atmosphere that elevated the entire experience. It was my first-ever fashion show, and I couldn’t have asked for a more exhilarating introduction to the world of fashion.

During my trip, I had the chance to visit Tate Modern, and I must admit, it became my absolute favorite part of London. In fact, I returned twice during my short stay—it was that captivating. While the art collection inside was undoubtedly magnificent, it was the building itself that truly took my breath away. The Tate Modern is a masterpiece of architecture, and I found myself drawn to it in ways I hadn’t anticipated. Housed in the former Bankside Power Station, the building’s industrial, almost brutalist aesthetic immediately stood out. The transformation from a functional power plant to a world-renowned museum is nothing short of extraordinary. Designed by Swiss architects Herzog & de Meuron, the conversion was completed in 2000, turning the once imposing structure into an open and inviting space for contemporary art. What struck me the most was the way the architects preserved the original industrial elements while integrating modern design features. The high ceilings and massive Turbine Hall gave the space an awe-inspiring grandeur, and the light that streamed through the tall windows in just the right moments created a magical ambiance. The building’s unique design is a perfect blend of raw, rustic charm and contemporary sophistication. The exposed brick walls and steel beams were juxtaposed with sleek glass panels, and I found myself completely immersed in the architectural beauty of the space. There was something so calming and inspiring about how the light interacted with the structure—it felt like a celebration of both the industrial past and the innovative future. I could have easily spent hours wandering through the galleries, but it was the very structure of Tate Modern that I found myself continually drawn to. It’s one of my favorite buildings now, and I’m already planning my next visit. If there’s one thing that I know for sure about London, it’s that Tate Modern will be a must-see destination every time I return.

During my time in London, I also had the chance to visit Shakespeare’s Globe Theatre, which turned out to be another unexpected highlight of my trip. I was exploring the city on my own for a while, soaking in the vibrant atmosphere, when I stumbled upon this iconic venue. Little did I know, I was in for a truly immersive experience. I joined a tour group led by a guide who was not only knowledgeable but incredibly witty, making the whole experience engaging and entertaining. As we made our way through the recreated Elizabethan playhouse, I was transported back in time. The Globe, originally built in 1599, is a faithful reconstruction of the theatre where Shakespeare’s plays were first performed. The current building, opened in 1997, sits just a stone’s throw from the original site, and its authenticity is breathtaking. The open roof, the wooden galleries, and the standing “pit” where the groundlings would have watched the plays all contributed to a real sense of how audiences would have experienced theatre in Shakespeare’s day. As the guide shared fascinating anecdotes about Shakespeare’s life, his works, and the Elizabethan theatre culture, I felt like I was gaining a deeper understanding of the playwright’s genius. Shakespeare’s works, so deeply tied to the Globe, have transcended time and continue to shape modern theatre. Learning about his influence, not just as a playwright but also as a cultural figure, was fascinating. The fact that the theatre itself remains a living part of his legacy made it all the more special. The experience also gave me a deeper appreciation for the plays and how they were originally performed—without the modern lighting and elaborate sets that we often see today. The guide’s wit and humor made it even more enjoyable, as we learned about the mischievousness of Shakespeare’s characters, the bawdy humor of the time, and the lively atmosphere of performances in the 16th century. I left the Globe Theatre feeling enriched, with a new respect for Shakespeare’s impact on literature and the arts. It was a perfect blend of history, culture, and humor, and I’m so glad I took the time to visit. It’s an experience I will definitely cherish and recommend to anyone visiting London.

Afterwards, I met up with some friends for a bit of pub hopping and ended the night with a couple of surprisingly fancy cocktails in a mysterious bar with no name on the door. The sandwich, though, really surprised me—not in a good way. It was pricey, but the quality was pretty underwhelming.

Looking back on my time in London, that day stands out as the pinnacle of my journey. Especially all the flirty bartenders haha It felt like a breath of fresh air, a moment of pure excitement and wonder that I’ll always carry with me.